Ignition time delay relay gets really hot - 1984 Chrysler LeBaron

key off, key on ,ACC or running? 4 mode KEY what?

engine running or not, if not running the accessory delay relay drops all that out. in 10min./ RTM

now read the manual for your truck, cost zero to get. from FORD. read up delay word !

must be a new truck to you no?

cars have 2 to 4 or more fuse boxes, and covered

in the glove box users guide, lost that? but yes vast fuses and relays.

I bet some things work in ACC (key position)

the delay relay drives fuse F2.401, windows. power.

when delay times out the fuse goes dead, relay opens.

this is no 1990 or older truck

this relay save damage to the battery.

5 fuses run the cluster all are KEYON only power.

one fuse is memory hot all the time does not count

one fuse is run ACC power.

one more for fun, RADIO power

if those things fail all the time ,any key position

or engine is dead say so

and scan the PCM.

or jumper cable jump start your weak battery, main.

Sounds like the accessory delay relay contacts are stuck closed sending battery voltage to those componets all the time , do you know what accessory delay relay is ?

Have you checked the ignition switch (and wiring to the relay block from it)?

when it stops feel the coil and if it is REALLY hot to the touch , replace it
what you have indicates an electronic component is failing when hot so coil or ignition module are 2 areas to look at

The clicking you hear is the vehicle asking for the program sequence to reprogram the locking system. Apparently something threw it out of sequence, ( a battery change , jumpstart, voltage spike , etc). The programming sequence that mazda uses is really kinda crazy. I was able to locate the sequence to try. If it does not work have the dealership flash the pcm, (another word for reprogram the powertrain control module). Here is the sequence:
1) Get in MPV with ignition key, and all fobs for the vehicle.
2) Close all doors and remove ignition key if it is in ignition.
3) Open driver's door
Note: Steps 4 and 5 must be completed in under thirty seconds.
4) Repeat the following three times
a) Insert ignition key
b)Turn ignition switch to on and then to lock
c) Remove ignition key
5) Repeat the following three times
a) Close driver's door
b) Open driver's door
Locks should all lock and then unlock within a couple of seconds--you'll hear the clicking sound
6) Press any button two times within five seconds on fob being programmed.
Locks should again lock and unlock
7) Repeat step 6 for all other fobs being programmed. When done with last fob, wait a few seconds and then you should be done with the reprogramming. Each fob should now work for this vehicle.

It should not be getting that hot, you are getting feedback into that Relay for some reason and you need to find out why? But first try replacing the Relay with a new one. There is a good change that the Feedback is Internal of the Relay. (VW has this problem on their 90's Models.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm or other system hooked up to the ignition system?

You need to provide the specific year, engine size, and model Acadia as well, such as if it is an LT or not for a proper diagram. Even with a wiring diagram, it's going to be a needle in a haystack that you will be looking for.

This sounds like you have some sort of aftermarket system that has a relay or capacitor that is delaying the cut off to the switch, which will explain the delay in shutting off and the drain on your battery.

Here's a test I would start with to see if you can narrow things down...

Remove the positive cable and hook a test light between the post and the positive cable and the test light will light up. Go to your fuse panel and pull each fuse one at a time and replace it, going from one to the next until the light goes out. That will be the circuit that is causing the drain. Hopefully you will be able to isolate the offending device, and hopefully correct the back feed into your ignition system at the same time.

Check the relays. There just under the driving wheel inside a closed box. Just take off the box and you should see about 7 relays. The big one in the far right corner controls the delay mechanism for your windows #4. What I discovered is theys relays can get really hot and just stop working. No wonder why my windows stopped working when the inside of the car got hot.

If there really hot, then try replacing them and see if that helps.
But first make sure you find the relay that controls the power windows.

These relays are designed for delay response, like our head lights or your power windows so they can still function after you've taken your key out of the ignition.

delayed ignition ?? (meaning no spark when first cranking over)
or delayed starting
if delayed spark -electrical problem -check Ignition module and wiring
if delayed starting (spark ok) i'd check is Fuel rest pressure And Fuel pump relay
Does fuel pump cycle when ignition is turned on
meaning engine starts when oil pressure activates pump

I would replace the relay that gets hot, and make VERY SURE that the relay pins fit real tight in the female receivers for the relay. A *** slight *** amount of clearance at the connection will arc & def heat up the relay. Once relays get really, really hot, it, at times, they may no longer be reliable.