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1. The radiator cap if working correctly it will release pressure in the system provided the cap you have is the correct pressure setting. If you are having a problem with pressure then replace the cap with a new radiator cap with the correct pressure setting. Do not use a cap with a pressure setting other than the original equipment pressure spec. So you do not go to the parts store and buy any radiator cap on the shelf that fits because they come with different pressure ratings and some of these will be totally unsuitable for your car.
2. If the pressure valve is stuck in the "old" cap the pressure release system will not work.
3. Overheating
Air pockets in the cooling system can definitely cause overheating and can retard coolant flow through the system. If you are draining the radiator to replace the coolant or replacing the radiator you need to follow the correct procedures for bleeding air out of the system for that particular engine after coolant refilling. Some engines have bleeder screws on the cooling system to assist in the air bleeding procedure and some don't.
There are various causes for overheating so don't assume it will necessarily be solved by bleeding any remaining air from the cooling system and replacing the radiator cap with one that works.
Other causes can be...........
1. Faulty cooling system thermostat. (Replace the Thermostat)
2. Faulty water pump, especially if the impellers have corroded away or have disintegrated in the case of those design genius water pumps with plastic impellers. (Replace the water pump)
3. Cooling fans not working and if so the cause needs to be tracked. Check that your fans are kicking in. If the engine is overheating the fans should be running because they will switch on when the coolant reaches a specific temp and well before the coolant gets excessively hot.
4. A partial blockage in the coolant passages inside the engine but not in the radiator if you have a new one. If the coolant is not changed at the required intervals(frequently the case with many owners) or is over diluted with water you can get a build up of debris. If products like stop leak have been used in the system this can create similar problems with partial blockages inside the engine coolant passages.
5. A compression leak into the cooling system.
If you have bled air from the system and have continuous air bubbles in the cooling system I would suspect a compression leak. In that event a basic leak down test will show if you have compression gasses leaking into the cooling system and from which cylinder(s). The spark plug is removed and compressed air is forced into the cylinder via the spark plug fitting and air bubbles will show up in the coolant of there is a leak into the cooling system.
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Have the problem with overheating addressed immediately. Running the engine with an overheat condition will cause expensive engine damage many times the cost of fixing the overheating issue.
Start the engine with the radiator cap off. When the thermostat opens the water level will drop. Keep adding water slowly till it takes no more water and then cap to pressurize. Also fill the excess tank to recommended level marking on side of tank.
When the engine is cool open the Radiator Cap and make sure it is filled to the top with Coolant. From there locate the Coolant Reservoir and make sure it is filled to the level marked on the side of the container. Now this is where the confusion comes as "burping" the cooling system comes from decades ago and is not necessary now. When the Cooling System is properly filled the system will purge its self when it runs and shuts down. The important part is run the engine to completely make the nominal operating temperature and when it cools the Coolant will move around. This is where most people open the Radiator Cap to check which introduces more Air into the system. Do not open the Radiator but rather check the Reservoir which you should see actually lost Coolant is it gut sucked into the Radiator thus topping off the system.
sounds like air in system ...
Leave the radiator cap off, turn the engine on and let it
run until the radiator "burps": You will see the coolant level drop and
may see or hear a large air bubble come to the top as the system burps.
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge throughout this process
Refill the radiator to the top and coolant reservoir as needed.
Put the radiator cap back on.
Note that if the engine runs hot after this procedure there
may have been another pocket of air that "burped." Let the engine cool
down and then add more coolant to both the radiator and the coolant
reservoir.
Air is getting into the system. Tighten all hoses and do not overlook the hose going to the expansion tank. When car cools that hose sucks water back into system but if not tight it will suck in air. Could be why you constantly have to "burp" the system.
i guess you are saying the idle goes up and down.. if so first make sure the cooling system is full and has been burped ... if good then bad ect...electronic cooling tempurature sensor will also cause this... if you have had any work done to it lately hopefully no one has tried to adjust the idle... really make sure no air is in the cooling system.. it is not easy but has to be burped goooooood
If you can't remove all the air by filling while running with heater on hot, there is a possibility that you have a leaking cylinder head gasket (pressure from there will fill the cooling system and displace coolant) To test, have a shop do a hydrocarbon test on the radiator. Hope I'm wrong, but quite often on those I'm not.
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