Need to know what thousandths does the intake and exalt valve is set on?

Valve/ rocker arm adjustment. Look up the numbers, But I believe the exhaust is 5 thousandths and 7 thousandths for the intake. Check those numbers though.

Valve lash adjustment, is mostly all hydraulic with no adjustments, if you are experiencing some sore of noise for lifters try desludging the engine using aa motor treatment. Follow all directions. When I rebuilt heads most lash adjustments are 8 to 10 thousandths for intake and 10 to 12 thousandths for exhaust. Also timing components can also sound like lifters, in some cases a bad waterpump causes weird sounds too.. please try to ask more specific questions.

First find where it is coming from. Most likely from the valve covers. Just wear and tear on the components. I believe Toyota has adjustable valves. You'll have to remove the valve covers. The rockers arms will have a screw with a nut on the top of them. Loose the nut and adjust the screw down. This has to be done with each cylinder at top dead center. You will need feeler gauges. The gap is small. 3 to 7 thousandths. I don't have the exact numbers. The intake and exhaust valves are different measurements.

the valve clearance is intake .006 exhust .010 they must be set with engine cold passenger side is the intake driver side is the exhust send me your e-mail and i will send you the procedure.

If the engine is not apart, there isn't any real way to tell but if you remove a valve cover, on a solid lifter cam, when the engine is turned, there should be one time, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe a bit past the time when the valve you are watching has closed, that you should have about 16 thousandths or more clearance between the rocker and the valve stem (called lash) A hydraulic lifter is always in contact with no gap.(though you may get a false reading if a lifter is bleeding down)
if the engine is apart enough to see the top of the lifters, a hydraulic lifter has a wire clip in the top that holds the hydraulic piston inside from popping out too far. A solid lifter does not have a clip because it dosen't need one (that's why it's solid)
Unfortunately, to know WHICH cam you have, you'd need to remove it as the manufacturer and grind numbers are usually stamped on the back end. (generally 16thousandths lash on intakes and 18 thousandths on exhaust will put you in the "ball-park" though).

The 4.0 engine has non-adjustable hydraulic lifters. The rocker arms are torqued to 19 foot lbs. No further adjustment is necessary.
If you have valve clatter it is likely due to worn pivots on the rockers or a worn cam lobe.
I would also check the valve springs (rare but they can break), oil pressure (low pressure from worn bearings or obstructed pickup screen) as that can cause lifter noise as well. If all is good, sometimes using an additive like marvel or lucas oil treatment will quiet them down.

it does'nt tell you any spec's because you probly have self adjusting lifters A.K.A hydraulic lifters they pump up and take out the slack .just set the rockers properly and you should be goin again.. but if it is overhead cam and all the rockers are on a shaft then i'm guessing the intake would be around .010 thousandth's and the exaust would be more like .012 thousandths but good luck what ever your playing with .

The Timing Belt runs from the Crankshaft of the engine.
In turn, it goes around the Camshaft gear, or gears.

The Camshaft opens the Valves in the Cylinder Head.

These valves open to bring in the air/fuel mixture, (Intake Valve/s), and let out the Exhaust.
(Exhaust valves)

These must be done in a precise fashion.

If the Intake valve closes too late, you will lose compression, hence power.
If the Exhaust valve opens too early, you will early you will lose power.

When a timing belt stretches due to wear, it allows the above conditions to happen.

(The Timing Belt has teeth on the inside of it. These teeth match notches on the timing gears. One gear for the Camshaft, or Each camshaft, and one for the Crankshaft.

The teeth wear down, and the belt also stretches. All it takes, is a discrepancy of a few thousandths of an inch.

An average human hair is .003 thick. Three thousandths.
60 thousandths stretch of the belt will cause these problems. 60 thousandths is approximately 1/16th of an inch)

This animation may help to explain how your Four Stroke engine in your Volkswagon works. This way you can see the Cylinder Head, Camshaft, Crankshaft, and Valves that I have been referring to,

http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

Doesn't show the Timing gears, or timing belt.
The animation at the top right of the page, shows an engine with dual overhead camshafts.

Two camshafts.

This shows how a timing belt is incorporated,

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/timing_belt.html

Yes, if the timing belt is known to be bad, this will definitely cause a power problem.

A clogged Catalytic Converter will also.
There are pellets inside a catalytic converter.
These pellets would remind you of small peas.

Over time they break down, and form clumps. The clumps can restrict the exhaust gases from escaping out of the catalytic converter, and cause back pressure.

This will rob the vehicle of power. After time the restriction may be so great, that no exhaust gases will be allowed to escape, and the vehicle will not run.

Engine cold, you set the Intake valve clearance at .0005 to .0025
(.0005 = 5 ten-thousands, or also said as 1/2 thousandths.
.0025 = 2 and a half thousandths)

Set the Exhaust at .001 to .0025
(1 thousandths, to 2 and a half thousandths)

Use a feeler gauge. The Firing Order is just like a Chevy. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Adjust these mechanical tappets, just like you would for any Chevy engine with mechanical tappets.

You adjusted the valves too tight. Back off of the adjustment before you break parts. You Have to set the rocker arm clearance when the engine is cold. (Not warm, not hot)

Use a feeler gauge.
The clearance for the Intake valves is .007 to .009. (7 to 9 thousandths)
The clearance for the Exhaust valves is .009 to .011 (9 to 11 thousandths)
You want a slight drag when you pull the feeler gauge through. This technique takes a certain amount of 'Feel'.