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year of car? must be old, to even have them.....as a general rule, on cars with points, almost anything started and ran ok with a 0.014-0.020" point gap...I had a V6 capri which had 0.0250 point gap but that was exceptionally wide, you tended to allow at the wider end of range if you had just fitted a new point set, on the theory that the gap would close a little as the new rubbing block wore in. what brand of engine electrics does it have? Since Daihatsu did a lot of business with Toyota, they tended to have Denso distributors/alternators/starter motors.You can then correct your timing if necessary, either running with timing light, or static by rotating engine manually with ignition on and watching/listening for precise moment of point opening, vs timing mark rotation position .If you access the precise point gap spec later you can correct it if desired, chances are it is in the range I've mentioned anyway. Dwell angle, well, of course it is inversely proportional to point gap anyway.Larger gap, smaller dwell. Wider point gap advances initial timing.
If this idles and starts fine, then fuel pump and distributor should be ok. If pump was bad, it would not likely start or run at all. If you have a distributor, then definately check your timing. That's what it sounds like is your timing is off. Do go over all your vaccum lines, that could have same result, but would probably idle fine but accelerate poorly if you had vaccum leak. If timing was off, then it would idle rough and have poor acceleration. Do you have fuel injection or carbs? I like to use a can of "seafoam" Which removes moisture, depositsm, grime, dirt and anything elese in the fuel system that doesn't belong there.
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