Nocking noise from exaust or transmission but the engine light not on

Knocking noise is not a good sign. Could be the oil flow has been disrupted. Continued driving could damage the engine. Take it in for service immediately.

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OK let's do a little check. with the car in a clear area and no kid's or anyone around the car get in and start the engine.Now do you hear the noise with the car sitting at an idle.Let's say yes then put your foot on the brake and put the car in gear do you hear the knock if so hold the brake secure make sure no one is in front of the car and apply the gas lightly if the noise stop's then you have a loose torque converter to flywheel the bolt's are not tight..Now if you hear the knock and it's high pitch metallic then chance's are it's a rod or lifter in the engine.If the noise is a thumping dull noise you have a bad crankshaft.My guess is the torque converter because you said the transmission was worked on and a lot of time's without Loctite and the proper tourque the converter bolt's will work loose.GOOD LUCK HOPE THIS HELP'S

Has the engine enought oil?
is the engine missing?
does the exaust noise sound ok? and all cylinders a running?

It sounds rather like one of the drive shafts may have broken, but that is rare. What happens when you rev the engine in neutral, any knocking noises then? Does the oil pressure warning light come on? Is the check engine light on?

I'm trying to deduce whether the noise is in the engine or transmission somewhere.

Did changing the oil cause your light to go on? You didn't say if the noise started all at once or if it has gotten louder over time.

Typically a knock not related to predetonation ("pinging") will typically come from the connection at the crankshaft to the piston connecting rod. A slapping sound may occur if the connecting rod pin is sloppy or part of a piston skirt is damaged. I had a 98 Durango but can't remember if you have hydraulic lifters. A bad lifter can also emit a knock. If you have more of a clatter check the rocker arms. It's also possible a pushrod is bent. Use a mechanics stethescope or metal rod and try to isolate the noise source. The precise location of the knocking will improve you odds of solving the problem.

WELL BLACK SMOKE AND KNOCKING CAN BE CAUSE BY RESTRICTED AIR FILTER FAULTY .INJECTION PUMP IT HAS INTERNAL FAILURE OR INJECTION PUMP TIMING OFF.USE A MECHANIC STETHOSCOPE SAME THING DOCTOR USE BUT IT HAS A LONG PROBE PICKS SOUNDS YOU CAN HEAR ENGINE NOISES.FAULTY VALVES AND FAULTY FUEL INJECTORS.YOU CAN GO TO SEARS BUY ONE.PLACE IT NEAR YOUR DIESEL INJECTION PUMP WHILE ENGINE RUNNING IF PUMP FAULTY YOU CAN HEAR IT USING A STETHOSCOPE.

Not unless the pipes have seperated inside exaust even then the knocking comes from exaust not engine.

Alternator knocking ????is the alternator light on is it charging as is almost impossible to get a knocking out of a alternator and it still charge at the same time.
Start engine ind get a small plastic tube and put it on the alternator and put your ear to it and you should hear the noise real bad.
And you should feel it getting real hot after run for 3 minutes if not its not ALTERNATOR

It sounds like you may have some sludge in your oil. When the engine is cold the oil is thicker and takes a while for the oil pump to pump it through the engine. The next time you change the oil. Do an engine oil flush first to clean the inside of the engine and ports. If this does not work you might have to have the oil pump checked. There is no need to worry as long as you have oil pressure and the knocking stops. I hope this helps. Don't forget to rate this answer.

hello it sounds like you oil pump is not supply enough oil from what your explaining it sounds like a connecting rod knock wich you will usually here under stress load with engine increase check your oil level on the car try to increase idle while holding your brake in gear then do the same in nuetral does the noise sound the same if it does you should have a compression test on each cylinder to rule out each cylinder goodluck