I need to replace the a/c clutch. Already remove the plate and snap ring but stuck on how to pull the bearings cup. Not sure which tool to use (part number will be great). Tried a cluth hub puller but the pin does not fit in my threaded spline so, do I need some sort of cups or so? I have no clue what to do, any suggestions?

You need special tool
Tools Required ?€¢
J 37872 Compressor Clutch Holding Tool

?€¢
J 6083 Snap Ring Pliers

Important: Remove the three adjustable dowels from the J37872 Compressor Clutch Holding Tool.
Install three 5/16 x 1 inch bolts in place of the dowels.
Remove and discard the compressor clutch plate bolt.
Use the J 37872 to hold the compressor clutch plate from turning.
Remove the compressor clutch plate from the compressor.
Remove the compressor pulley snap ring using the J 6083
Remove the compressor pulley from the compressor.
Remove the compressor clutch coil snap ring using the J 6083 .
Remove the compressor clutch coil from the compressor.
google J 37872 - to see tool !

Not hard if you have the clutch removal tool. Remove the nut on the clutch. Screw in the clutch tool and pull the clutch off. remove the snap ring under the and gently pry the bearing off. Don't pry against the magnet under the bearing. If you chip it, you will have to replace it also. If it is bad, pry it off also.

Here's what Chilton has to say on assembling the main shaft.
1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear.
2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on.
3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer.
4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this.
5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005".
6.Install 3rd gear, hub to front, and synchronizing ring, notches to front.
7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer.
8.Install snap ring on mainshaft with ends of snap ring behind spline teeth.
9.Install rear bearing retainer. Spread snap ring in plate to allow plate to drop around main bearing and press on end of mainshaft until snap ring engages groove on bearing.
10. Install reverse gear with collar to rear.
11. Press speedometer gear drive on mainshaft. From the inside face of the speedometer drive to the inside face of the rear bearing retainer should be 4 and 5/16".

remove the intercooler and air filter box. undo starter motor then disconnect all connections into gbox. (2 i think) remove both front wheels then dsconnect both drive shafts at the gbox. (just pull them out) undo the mount above the gbox then supprt with a jack. remove mount then undo the ring of bolts that join it to the engine. pull it over to one side as far as you can get it. this should give u enough room to remove the clutch. ring of bolts holding pressure plate to the flywheel. friction plate between the two. then remove the bearing from the shaft in the gbox. replace all 3 parts ensuring the new bearing is greased, and in the fork correctly. assemble in reverse order. before starting check you get all gears then start with the clutch depressed and slowly release incase the release bearing is stuck..
CAUTION. GBOX IS VERY HEAVY

It will need to be pressed out.

Universal Joint: Service and Repair
Nylon Injected Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - Nylon Injected Ring
^ Tools Required
- J 9522-3 U Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft as to which end is the transmission end and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1 1/8 inch) socket.
4. In order to shear the plastic retaining ring on the bearing cup, place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out
of the yoke ear.
5. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue to press the bearing cup out of the yoke.
6. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
7. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
8. Remove the cross from the yoke.
9. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke
in the same manner.
10. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for plastic.
11. Inspect the bearing cup bores in the yoke ears for burrs or imperfections.
12. Clean the remains of the sheared plastic bearing retainers from the grooves in the yoke.
13. The sheared plastic may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place and thus prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke.
3. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
4. Assemble the cross into the yoke so the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
5. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
6. Assemble the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
7. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
8. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for a free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang-up or binding, stop pressing, and inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
9. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing retainer groove clears the inside of the yoke.
10. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
11. Continue pressing until you can snap both retainers into place.
12. If seating the retainer is difficult, spring the yoke slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
13. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.



Universal Joint: Service and Repair
External Snap Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - External Snap Ring
^ Tools Required
- J. 9522-3 U-Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U-Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft in order to show which end connects to the transmission and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
4. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
5. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 inch) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 inch) socket.
6. Place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
7. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
8. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
9. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
10. Remove the cross from the yoke.
11. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke.
12. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke in the same manner.
13. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
14. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
15. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place o
prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
3. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
4. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
5. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
6. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
7. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
8. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
9. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
10. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
11. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
12. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

1991-96 Models
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the transaxle assembly.
4. If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
5. Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.

Fig. Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear

1. Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
2. Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.

If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.

1. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as needed.

To install:

1. If removed, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool.
2. If removed, install the flywheel. Make sure the flywheel and crankshaft flange mating surfaces are clean. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm) on the 1.8L engine or 54-67 ft. lbs. (73-91 Nm) on the 1.9L engine.
3. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool. If the clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made during the removal procedure.
4. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.

Fig. Fig. 2: Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a clutch aligning tool


Fig. Fig. 3: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated

1. If the release bearing was removed, lubricate the release fork where it contacts the bearing and install the bearing in the fork.
2. Install the transaxle assembly.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if needed.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.

Removel:

• Remove the serpentine belt and unbolt the compressor from it's mounts and tilt it up so you can get to the front easier.
  
• Use the clutch removal tool to pull off the clutch.
  
• Remove the large snap ring in front of the pulley.
  
• Spray some WD40 in the hub area and remove the pulley from the compressor. It's best to use the universal puller.
  
• If you don't have the puller bolt the compressor back down to it's mount and carefully pry the pulley away from the compressor. Be careful and don't stress the gas lines. The pulley bearing is pressed onto the aluminum casting of the compressor body so you are not prying against the compressor shaft. The bearing can be hard to remove because the steel bearing in contact with the aluminum frame will cause a dissimilar metal weld.
  
• Clean off all the surfaces and threads using a wire brush and / or some sand paper. Note: The white circular object is the magnetic coil that activates the A/C.

Instalation:

• Place the new hub on the frame and tap into place with a piece of wood or use the special puller tool which will also press the new hub into the frame.
  
• Press the hub in until the groove is exposed enough to install the large snap ring.
  
• Install the large snap ring. Make sure it is seated all the way around.
  
• Install the clutch assembly taking care to position the shaft key in the compressor slot. Use the special installer tool to press the clutch into place. Leave between .020 and .030 air gap between the hub and the clutch.
  

Good luck and keep me posted, Be glad to answer any questions you may have and if you need help replacing the coil also, (clutch core)

you will need to have the small tool kit that comes with both tools for pulling and installing clutch assembly. Check with Autozone and see if they have it in their tool loan program.

There is a special puller to remove the a/c clutch hub it screws into hub and pulls off the pulley is just held on with a snap ring