Question about 2006 Hyundai Tucson

1 Answer

Air conditioner fails when car is in idle

Last year we had the ac clutch replaced, which seemed to resolve the issue, until it got hot again this summer. Now the same exact thing is happening. When you are stopped at a red light during the hot summer the ac begins to blow warm and un conditioned air. As soon as you give it the gas it begins working properly again.

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  • Contributor
  • 29 Answers

Possible reason is a failing compressor or electrical problem.

Source: All About Car cartechhome com

Posted on Nov 28, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Steven Brock

  • 507 Answers

SOURCE: Heater not warming up during idle

check fluid level, sounds low. if that's not it, sounds like a clog in the heating system or pump going bad.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

ghost4548

Paul McGrath

  • 776 Answers

SOURCE: engine gets very hot; air conditioning shuts off

It needs to be diagnosed. It's normal for the AC to shut down when the engine overheats. The engine computer (called the ECU - Engine Control Unit) monitors the coolant temperature by means of a coolant temperature sensor (cts). When this sensor tells the computer the engine is too hot (above 230 to 240 degrees), the ECU turns off the AC compressor and the cooling system fans go to MAXIMUM (HIGH) speed. By the way, there are two engine/coolant temp sensors - one for the instrument gauges, the other for the ECU. If this sensor is malfunctioning, it can cause the symptom you describe - BUT that needs to be verified. Best solution, take it back into the mechanics/technicians and have them determine if that's all this is, because if it isn't, something else could be seriously wrong (clogged radiator, malfunctioning water pump, bad thermostat (even though it's new (or maybe it didn't actually get replaced), and there's a slew of other possible causes.. leaking head gasket for one. Best have the professionals (if they are professional) diagnose it.

Posted on May 27, 2009

ronaldo_ross

Ronado Panaligan

  • 1056 Answers

SOURCE: air conditioner blow out hot air

Maybe your heater is working at the same time. An open heater valve can cause this. Maybe there is a leak in the vacuum that pull the heater valve diaphram close.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

rwc120

  • 341 Answers

SOURCE: the air conditioning compressor will not engage

Check all the fuses and the a/c relays. Depending on how long the car has sat but it is possible that if you had a small leak in the system, that all the refrig has leaked out.2005 is possibly still under warranty. I would suggest contacting Hyundai first before you do anything to see, maybe you won't have to pay for it or possibly they have had a recall on some A/C part. What do you have to lose.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

paul campbell

  • 1071 Answers

SOURCE: On Hot days when I park in the sun , the car's

replace the battery hyundai/kia use some pretty crappy batteries i am a kia / hyundai tech and have had to replace batteries when the cars have come off the truck i would buy an interstae or exide and you wont ahve the issue again

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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2 Answers

Why ac blowing hot air


start off with the cheap possibilities and make your way threw.
I'd start off with replacing Air Charge temperature sensor, make sure your AC Hose isnt leaking anywhere, if those dont solve it then replace ur AC clutch, last chance would be replacing AC compressor. sometimes the compressor will malfunction randomly. or the AC clutch might malfunction aswell. covering these steps somewhere along the line you will have working AC again! good luck

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When driving the vehicle will die, if it sets for a little bit it will restart. This all started a year ago, when we turned on the air conditioning, before that it would run fine, but it seemed only w


If the compressor is failing, or there is a restriction in the ac system, the compressor could put a heavy load on the belt and the engine.
Normally the ac clutch would slip and not kill the engine, but anything is possible.
I t could be something else electrical too.

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Sounds like the air gap on the compressor clutch is to wide, when the compressor turns off to recycle the electromagnet on the clutch is not strong enough to pull the air gap and lock up compressor. The air gap is adjustable and should be checked.

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My air conditioner is putting out cold air for a few minutes then it's warm for 5 minutes and then it's getting cold again? I had the compressor changed by a mechanic who wasn;t sure how much freon it...


OK, the requirement of Freon is 2 cans...as for the Cold/Hot problem, a little info first; the PCM controls the AC clutch (adjusts the IAC, Idle Air Control valve to speed up the idle when turning on the AC unit, and slows down the idle after turning off the AC unit), also the PCM controls the relay that cycles the AC clutch. My experience has been that the relay is "going South". This bad boy is in the fuse block in the engine compartment by the Air Filter box. The relay is an inexpensive item, and if you live where the AC unit is used frequently, I would recommend it being replaced every 3-5 years. Be sure to check with the mechanic to make sure he properly recharged the system, and if so, try these ideas.

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IDLE high when stopped or clutched


The ecm will tell the iac to idle up when it senses the ac is turned on.If the ac compressor doesn`t come on,there is no resistance on the motor,but the motor does not know that,so it idles up.Find out why the ac is doing this,it wouldn`t be low on freon,it would have to be,most likely the ac clutc going bad.Try this,turn ac on and when ac clutch goes off,be ready,and don`t get hurt,tap it lightly with a tool or something,but be carefull!.If it clicks back on,try it again when it stops,to make sure.This will tell you the ac clutch/coil assembley is bad.

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Had the same problem on 98 Eddy Bauer we have. Have you noticed that it has a tendency to belch out hot air and the blower speed slows down mostly when you accelerate or give it a little more gas to climb a hill or an overpass or even pass somebody? If this is the case there is a pressure switch that's hooked into the intake manifold were it can sense a drop in pressure and when it does it drops the ac clutch out and slows the dash blower down till the pressure comes back up. JUMP IT OUT. All your problems will go away. Thats in there to unload the engine during acceleration and heavy loads and after the switch ages it gets trigger happy and lazy about closing to bring the ac back on.

Pat - Houston

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1 Answer

Ac controle blows out hot air, seems heater is on all the time


HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

Apr 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

A.C.


HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

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