Air conditioner fails when car is in idle

If your vehicle's air conditioning system intermittently switches from blowing cold air to hot air, there could be a few possible causes for this issue. Here are some potential reasons:
1. Low refrigerant levels: Insufficient refrigerant can lead to inconsistent cooling performance. When the refrigerant level drops, the system may blow cold air initially but eventually switch to blowing hot air. This could be due to a refrigerant leak or a problem with the AC system's components. A professional AC service technician can check the refrigerant levels and locate any potential leaks.
2. Faulty blend door actuator: The blend door actuator is responsible for directing airflow through different vents. If the blend door actuator malfunctions or gets stuck, it may cause uneven airflow distribution, resulting in cold air on one side and hot air on the other. Replacing the faulty actuator should resolve the issue.
3. Control module or sensor malfunction: The AC system relies on various sensors and control modules to regulate temperature and airflow. If any of these components malfunction, it can cause erratic cooling behavior. A diagnostic scan by a qualified technician can identify any faulty sensors or control modules that need to be repaired or replaced.
4. Electrical or wiring issue: In some cases, electrical or wiring problems can cause intermittent AC issues. Loose connections, damaged wires, or faulty relays can disrupt the proper functioning of the AC system, leading to inconsistent cooling performance. A thorough inspection of the electrical system by a professional is necessary to identify and resolve any wiring issues.
Given the complexity of diagnosing and repairing automotive AC systems, it is recommended to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic or AC specialist. They have the necessary tools, knowledge, and experience to diagnose the specific issue and perform the required repairs to restore consistent cooling performance in your truck.

It is possible that the problem with your Suzuki van air conditioner fan could be caused by a clogged air filter, which can cause the fan to struggle to function properly in hot temperatures. You may need to replace the air filter or check it for any blockage. Additionally, you could also try to reset the air conditioner system to see if this resolves the issue.

start off with the cheap possibilities and make your way threw.
I'd start off with replacing Air Charge temperature sensor, make sure your AC Hose isnt leaking anywhere, if those dont solve it then replace ur AC clutch, last chance would be replacing AC compressor. sometimes the compressor will malfunction randomly. or the AC clutch might malfunction aswell. covering these steps somewhere along the line you will have working AC again! good luck

If the compressor is failing, or there is a restriction in the ac system, the compressor could put a heavy load on the belt and the engine.
Normally the ac clutch would slip and not kill the engine, but anything is possible.
I t could be something else electrical too.

My air conditioner started blowing hot air last summer. I put coolant in it and didn't run it until the beginning of summer this year (2011). All of a sudden it started working again. Sometimes it blows hot but if I keep it running full blast the coolness comes back. I don't know why this happened.

Make sure your coolig fan(s) are running while the ac is on. I''m not sure how you now that you have sufficient refrigerant in the system, but I would also have that checked. Over filled systems can act that way too! Last but not least, high and low pressure switches should be checked, amd if all else fails, check the expansion valve.

Sounds like the air gap on the compressor clutch is to wide, when the compressor turns off to recycle the electromagnet on the clutch is not strong enough to pull the air gap and lock up compressor. The air gap is adjustable and should be checked.

OK, the requirement of Freon is 2 cans...as for the Cold/Hot problem, a little info first; the PCM controls the AC clutch (adjusts the IAC, Idle Air Control valve to speed up the idle when turning on the AC unit, and slows down the idle after turning off the AC unit), also the PCM controls the relay that cycles the AC clutch. My experience has been that the relay is "going South". This bad boy is in the fuse block in the engine compartment by the Air Filter box. The relay is an inexpensive item, and if you live where the AC unit is used frequently, I would recommend it being replaced every 3-5 years. Be sure to check with the mechanic to make sure he properly recharged the system, and if so, try these ideas.

The ecm will tell the iac to idle up when it senses the ac is turned on.If the ac compressor doesn`t come on,there is no resistance on the motor,but the motor does not know that,so it idles up.Find out why the ac is doing this,it wouldn`t be low on freon,it would have to be,most likely the ac clutc going bad.Try this,turn ac on and when ac clutch goes off,be ready,and don`t get hurt,tap it lightly with a tool or something,but be carefull!.If it clicks back on,try it again when it stops,to make sure.This will tell you the ac clutch/coil assembley is bad.

HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.