I would agree. If you wire it direct the wires should not get hot.
The resistor will get hot under normal conditions because the resistance is how the motor speed is controlled.
So you are probably right the motor is failing.
You could get a new motor and hook it up without installing it to compare.
Since the MB blower motors has a slide bearing. get a lucas trans additive and put drop or two in the bearing assembly thanj watch the AMPS your blower motor is drawing , it should drop about 65% ! it is a temporary fix however . yesy it should last you a season without burning a resistor. Yet inspect bearings and if worn out too much , replece the blower motor .
if you run the blower direct it will get hot, the resistors job is to resist that heat and control the speed
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SOURCE: Blower motor won't work, even with new motor.
Hello Travis.
If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
There is a fuse in the underhood relay/fuse panel that feedback from the resistor output to the blower (purple wire) is also fed back to the heater control panel. Verify this fuse is good.
When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
Not sure how you tested the resistor but I suspect yours is faulty.
If you would like more advise let me know.
KL
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SOURCE: 2000 Pontiac Sunfire heater fan not blowing.
About the only thing left that hasn't been replaced is the fan control switch itself; it may have disintegrated internally.
You didn't mention if the fan motor itself had been replaced but I assume it was not in the system when the fuse blew again.
Not on GM products, but I have replaced a power connector that had (because of lousy internal contact) melted and allowed a ground contact to come into contact with a 12 volt line.
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SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Cherokee - Blower motor stopped working.
Check the relevant fuses with a test-light or VOM, don't just "eyeball" them as they often break at the very end. Then check the heater/A/C relays on the electrical panel. The heat/cool is controlled by a stepper motor which opens and closes the air "mixing box", but it won't work with a bad relay. If all of those check-out, you need a OBDII code reader to check the "engine" computer, as it controls the electrical modules. Also check the fusable links going to the electrical panel, and the cable from the battery to the panel. The cable may be corroded in-two and you'll never see it, so no juice to the panel, no juice to the heat/AC system. (I had a Dakota do that.) PS: Double check the grounds that they aren't corroded. Learned about that from a BSA Gold Star production racer.....
Testimonial: "Many thanks, Walker. Tt was the fuse in the kick panel. Looked ok, but NO continuity. I used the 10A spare and everything worked. Thanks!"
SOURCE: My 1996 blazer a/c system works fine....... But
Replace the blower motor resistor, it is going bad
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
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