Question about 2005 Jaguar X-Type
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
unlikely to be immobiliser fault ,so check basics,try a set of jump leads or check battery voltage above 12.5,if the clicking is coming from the starter motor with a fully charged battery then suspect starter motor failure.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
hi mike i had the very same problem with my 55 plate s type this morning 4 feb 2009 had driven a journey of 20+ miles at 9am with 4" of snow on the ground and at this point no problems and i would assume the discs and pads would have been toastie hot and the assoc parts ,
but after a quick stop for ten minutes i restarted the car and drove away up a slight incline in snow /slush the rear wheels lost traction and the dsc sybol illuminated on the dash after getting no traction in this mode switched dsc off and managed to get some traction by hook or crook on reaching the major grit treated road and gaining full trction the dsc was re selected
as per normal start up but then i noticed that i had the amber oval warning light on the dash and park brake fault promt on the info lcd .
On stopping the car i tried to switch off the engine and re start to see if this would reset or clear the display
resulting in the car still showing same fault msg and this time unable to select a gear and the gear selector stuck in park
on calling jaguar assist an engineer arrived within a reasonable time with laptop and conections to do a diognostic scan
finding that his pc would not cummnicate with my car following several attemps the engineer went on to get the park brake disengaged by these next two steps and i can only say that this worked sufficently to get the vehicle off the road to a more suitable investigating area
in my case my drive way less than 1/4 mile away
step 1. inside the boot lift the floor to expose spare wheel and battery compartment
then on drivers side, the interior that covers the rear light cluster should be teesed back there are two black fixings that secure this in place one being 1/4 turn the other a full thread plastic nut
once this liner is pulled back (easier with two people )there is a white (PARK BRAKE ) module sat there with a multi plug going in .
this multiplug contains severa wires going into it.
from what the engineer said the two your intrested are clearly fatter than the rest and control the motors that engage parking brake force to the calipers .
now heres the clever bit take 2 peices of wire at least 2 feet long making sure the ignition is off and key out
(this is also where a friend comes in handy )
where the battery is, remove the cover from atop of the live + terminal and place place /hold /secure one wire to each batery terminal this done then carefully touch the exposed other ends of each wire into the little gaps where the individual fat wires go into the multiplug trial and error will do one of two things
1/ nothing and the brake motors will just remain powered to keep brake force applied so by swapping them round should give the desired result in powering the motors to RELEASE breaking force and thus disengage
REAL IMPORTANT NOTE MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE CAN NOT ROLL ,OVER YOU ,OR AWAY ,CHOCK A WHEEL OR TWO WITH SOME THING BLOCK OF WOOD BRICK MOTHER IN LAW YA GET MY DRIFT
so stage one complete but error msg and drive selector still not moving
center console where ashtray is ,lift cover to expose cigar lighter
the trim panel that is sheild shaped and surrounds the gear selector should be grasped firmly by placing your four fingertips along the flat top area where it meets the ashtray and prise upwards toward the roof this removes the trim plate without any damage and exposes the Jgate selector linkage and the plastic dust shroud that rotates when various positions are selected .
now on the pasenger side look into the gap that has become visable and a small aprox 1/2" to 3/4 " protrusion with a flat straight lump similar to a slotted screw but in reverse if you get my drift sits on the side of the selector by rotating this button/protrusion with your finger tip or screw driver tip and trying to move the gear selector from its park position this should allow the selector to move down the gate,while the engineer did this in my case i was sat in the drivers seat and had the car held on the foot brake so that the normal protocols of selecting were observed also the engine was running on moving the selector neutral was selected and at no time was park re selected til the vehicle was recovered to my drive way
however whilst driving the car the parkbrake fault warnings were still present and the asssoc beeps were audible .
strangly once we were on my drive the car was re plugged in to diagnostic laptop after the engineer had tried it on the land rover disco he had attended in and this done just to elliminate that his laptop and cables were funcioning correctly which they were ,
my car began to communicate with his machine and a reset was done
the get you out the S**T CHEATS were put back to normal
the PARK BRAKE FAULT warning was cleared and so far so good
its been very intresting to note that all the posts i have read on the web seem to refer to 2005 models and that adverse wheather conditions seem to play there part i was relieved to have this fixed and very grateful to the engineer who was so very helpful and happy to share his wealth of knowledge without which i could not have passed this on
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
Well it is only a ford mondao with a different body shape ,No self respecting jag man would evan consider a diesel ,anyway enough winding up and back to problem ---diesel-- common rail injection ,,,,I honestly feel that it would need plugging in to a DIAGNOSTIC COMPUTER to find the fault because its not like the older model diesels with an injector pump and its all manual .This could be a fault with the cold start or the injector that controls the firing order .Sorry i couldnt be of any more help but these new fancy electronics ??
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
both of these codes refer to the transmission,it is now in LIMP HOME MODE,the codes refer to open or shorted circuits in the CAN (controlled area network) the computer system in the car. check for blown fuses first,then have the car scanned with a european scan tool which is capable of bi-directional communication with the vehicle,get back to me if you need more help,Please rate my fix as i strive to be the best Thanks Ray
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
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