97 aurora driver door won't lock after programming new remote

This sounds like you may have a bad lock actuator, there is an actuator that controls the lock, it may need replacing, you will need to remove the door panel to gain access to it, then with a testlight you will test to make sure the actuator is getting power and a ground and if it tests good for power and ground then replace it and door lock will start working again, this part is about 30.00 dollars. here is a picture of it. good day

What kind of vehicle is it?

Hello. Try looking at the black earth that goes from the drivers door and into the A frame which is covered in a rubber sheath. The wire can break after opening and shutting the door over several years and as it's normally the thicker wire is more prone to break. Also check the other wires visually for any chaffing and tugging on each wire. If more electrical parts start failing, air con blowers etc it will be an earth. Hope this helps

The remote is faulty. Time for a new one.

There is a fuse box under the right rear seat cushion behind the driver. In that box is a 10 amp mini fuse marked "TRUNK DR RELEASE". That is the fuse that powers your remote receiver. If that fuse is good, the receiver may have failed. To remove the seat cushion, pull the front of the cushion up and then forward.

If you can't open the door you can pull the corresponding seat to gain access and remove the inner door panel

There is a control module in each door with connectors. I have already had one where the wiring in the connector was bad. This takes some troubleshooting, but sometimes moving things around while trying to run the windows will should you where the loose connection is.

Hi,

As you have not stated the Year of Manufacture, I will provide the following possibilities:

Firstly, your wife must be using a sub-key (if no remote function). So, you need to determine if this was a factory supplied sub-key, or was a re-cut duplicate of the master key.

Secondly, the 'most used' key will usually wear out over time (and the driver's barrel lock will sometimes wear in accordance with the most used key), which would mean only that key will operate that door barrel lock successfully.

If the sub-key has not worn to the same degree, chances are the sub-key may not be able to engage properly when inserted into the driver's door lock.

This is common when using a sub-key - sometimes a sub-key won't start the car, but turning the key upside down will often operate the ignition. The same principle would apply to the driver's door lock also.

The key will often operate the door lock if you only insert it about 95% of the way , or simply turn the key upside down and try again.

If the key refuses to operate the driver's door, the other alternative is to enter via the passenger side and reach over to lock the driver's door from the inside. Then lock the passenger door behind you.

However, this is a major hassle, so I would recommend you obtain a replacement Renault key "FOB" remote (you can get these off Ebay reasonable cheaply - supplied with instructions) and program it to your vehicle yourself. This will enable both of you to have a central locking remote key fob.

Note: the remote fob programming feature will obvioulsly depend on the year of manufacture for your vehicle though.



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I know that this procedure work for Grand Prix and Monte Carlo, tesi it...

KEY FOB PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS
Transmitter Programming
No Tools Required
In the event that a transmitter is lost, program the old and the new transmitters into the memory of the remote control door lock receiver. Up to 4 transmitters may be programmed.


Important
Once the keyless entry receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information. You must then program all of the transmitters.

Program only 1 vehicle remote control door lock receiver at a time. If you program multiple receivers simultaneously, the same transmitter could possibly be programmed to more than 1 remote control door lock receiver.


Perform the following steps:
Sit in the vehicle driver's seat. (actually it’s much ezr from the front pass seat)
Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Close all of the vehicle's doors.
Remove the MALL PGM fuse from the fuse panel. Refer to Electronic Diagnosis in Body and Chassis.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the ACC position.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder OFF, then back to ACC within 1 second.
Open and then close any vehicle door. You will hear a chime when the remote control door lock receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode. If you do not hear a chime, start again at step 1.

Important
After 7 seconds, you may hear a chime confirming successful synchronization. After approximately 14 seconds, you will hear a chime confirming successful programming.

Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
Repeat step 8 in order to program each additional transmitter.

Hope helps.

Replace fuse 57 (15 amp) then disconnect battery and wait 30 to 45 minutes before reconnecting the battery.

My 2006 BMW 325I had the same problem with the door locks not responding. I checked all related fuses and found #57 (15 amp) was the only related fuse blown. I put in a new fuse and it still would not work. I then disconnected the battery for a while then once I reconnected the battery everything worked fine.

I believe I blew the fuse while repeatedly pushing the unlock button rapidly while walking across the parking lock to the car. I suggest only pushing the unlock button only once or twice.