What type of oil best for Camry 2003 2.4l with 75000 miles and run in warm temperature?

1. Error Code 24. Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Solution:
Check the following:
- IAT Connector and wiring.
- Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
- ECM.
2. Rough Idling when the engine is hot.
The following are the reasons due to which the engine can perform bad when it is hot.
- Fuel pump control circuit.
- Fuel pump pressure.
- Fuel injectors.
- Non Return Valve clogged, located on the lower side of car chassis above the fuel tank.
- Engine compression, valve clearance, spark plugs.

Any brand of Synthetic.

10W-30 if over 75000 miles. 5w-30 if under 75000 miles.

I think the engine coolant temp sensor or coolant thermostat has failed.

Depends on the season and temperature that it will be driven in.
Generally 10w-40 is for the summer, and the thinner 10w-30 is for the winter, if you so desire.

According to the chart, 5w-30 is preferred but 10w-30 can be used in 0 deg. F up to 100 deg. F and beyond.

Fuel and Engine Oil Recommendations GENERAL INFORMATION Oils The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number indicates the viscosity of the engine oil; its resistance to flow at a given temperature. The lower the SAE grade number, the lighter the oil. For example, the mono-grade oils begin with SAE 5 weight, which is a thin, light oil, and continue in viscosity up to SAE 80 or 90 weight, which are heavy gear lubricants. These oils are also known as "straight weight'', meaning they are of a single viscosity, and do not vary with engine temperature. Fig. 1: Look for the API oil identification label when choosing your engine oil
Fig. 2: Before installing a new oil filter, coat the rubber gasket with clean oil
Multi-viscosity oils offer the important advantage of being adaptable to temperature extremes. These oils have designations such as 10W-40, 20W-50, etc. The "10W-40'' means that in winter (the "W'' in the designation) the oil acts like a thin 10 weight oil, allowing the engine to spin easily when cold and offering rapid lubrication. Once the engine has warmed up, however, the oil acts like a straight 40 weight, maintaining good lubrication and protection for the engine's internal components. A 20W-50 oil would therefore be slightly heavier than and not as ideal in cold weather as the 10W-40, but would offer better protection at higher rpm and temperatures because when warm it acts like a 50 weight oil. Whichever oil viscosity you choose when changing the oil, make sure you are anticipating the temperatures your engine will be operating in until the oil is changed again. Refer to the oil viscosity chart for oil recommendations according to temperature. The API (American Petroleum Institute) designation indicates the classification of engine oil used under certain given operating conditions. Only oils designated for use "Service SG'' or greater should be used. Oils of the SG type perform a variety of functions inside the engine in addition to the basic function as a lubricant. Through a balanced system of metallic detergents and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents the formation of high and low temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and particles of dirt in suspension. Acids, particularly sulfuric acid, as well as other by-products of combustion, are neutralized. Both the SAE grade number and the API designation bottle be found on the oil can. For recommended oil viscosities, refer to the chart. Fig. 3: Viscosity chart
SYNTHETIC OIL There are many excellent synthetic oils currently available that can provide better gas mileage, longer service life, and in some cases better engine protection. These benefits do not come without a few hitches, however; the main one being the price of synthetic oils, which is three or four times the price per quart of conventional oil. Synthetic oil is not for every truck and every type of driving, so you should consider your engine's condition and your type of driving. Also, check your truck's warranty conditions regarding the use of synthetic oils. Both brand new engines and older, high mileage engines are often the wrong candidates for synthetic oil. A synthetic oil can be so slippery that they can prevent the proper break-in of new engines; most manufacturers recommend that you wait until the engine is properly broken in 3000 miles (4830 km) before using synthetic oil. Older engines with wear have a different problem with synthetics: they leak more oil as they age. Slippery synthetic oils get past worn parts easily. If your truck is leaking oil past old seals you'll most probably have a much greater leak problem with synthetics. Consider your type of driving. If most of your accumulated mileage is high speed, highway type driving, the more expensive synthetic oils may be a benefit. Extended highway driving gives the engine a chance to warm up, accumulating less acids in the oil and putting less stress on the engine over the long run. Trucks with synthetic oils may show increased fuel economy in highway driving, due to less internal friction. If synthetic oil is used, it should still be replaced at regular intervals as stated in the maintenance schedule. While the oil itself will last much longer than regular oil, pollutants such as soot, water and unburned fuel still accumulate within the oil. These are the damaging elements within a motor and must be drained regularly to prevent damage. Trucks used under harder circumstances, such as stop-and-go, city type driving, short trips, or extended idling, should be serviced more frequently. For the engines in these trucks, the much greater cost of synthetic or fuel-efficient oils may not be worth the investment. Internal wear increases much quicker on these trucks, causing greater oil consumption and leakage.

Climate has as much to do with your choice of motor oil as the amount of miles on the engine. If you live in a cold climate and your winter temps are often below freezing, you'll want to go with a lighter oil that will circulate better in the cold temperatures. Conversely, in a hot climate, a heavier oil that won't break down in viscosity would be a good choice. As far as the mileage goes, most oils are about the same and as long as you change your oil often, whatever oil you choose based on climate should suit you and the car well. I hope this clarifies your question. Best of luck!
Greg

P0125- Engine not reaching operation temp quick enough. Possible problems:

• Insufficient warm up time
• Low engine coolant level
• Leaking or stuck open thermostat
• Faulty coolant temp sensor
• P1130- A/F Sensor Circuit Range/performance, Bank 1 Sensor 1

well synthetic is with out a doubt the best,,,,ive seen car run regular oil for 50k miles and it was changed every 3000 miles and the inside of the engines were clean but brown inside from sludge and build up,ive seen the same thing where oil was changed every 6000 with reg oil and the engines are black inside,,and ive seen engine that run synthetic oil and they look almost new inside,the difference is clear that syn oil is far better,,but just remember your engine stays cleaner with syn oil but it does so because the oil picks up more dirt and lubricates better,,,so dont forget to change the oil filter cause now even more dirt will be getting trapped in it,beacuse of the better cleaning properties of the syn oil,,,,almost any syn oil is good,but MOBIL 1,AMSOIL are the best,,,,,they cost more but well worth it due to lack of engine repairs,,,i would still change oil every 4000 or so

There's several answers to that question. The "best" oil is what the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual. You can also make that decision based on several things including the type of driving you do, the temperature you most operate in, and personal preference. I have found that over the years simply using the recommended weight provides the best resutls.

Some folks use synthetic oil because they feel they get better performance. Personally I don't use synthetic oil in a car that didn't come from the factory with it. I've run several cars well over 200,000 miles by following the owner's manual without a hint of trouble.

try to reset the computer by disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute and see if the light comes back on after that if not your good to go

Complain to Toyota, they are fixing some of these car for free. Here is the explanation and the list of problem vehicles.

Oil sludge or black sludge is a solid or gel in motor oil caused by the oil gelling or solidifying, usually at temperatures lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Sludge can be a major contributor to Internal combustion engine problems, and can require the engine to be replaced, if the damage is severe. Sludge is usually caused by the presence of water in the oil, and can accumulate with use. Ways to minimize sludge production and accumulation includes performing frequent oil changes, using synthetic oil, and following the manufacturer's engine maintenance routine.
The following engines were reported by the Center for Auto Safety and/or their manufacturers to have a problem with sludge accumulation:

1996-2001 Toyota 3.0 L 1MZ V6

• August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
• June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
• July 1997-May 2001 Toyota Sienna
• July 1996-May 2001 Toyota Avalon
• November 2000-July 2001 Toyota Highlander
• August 1998-July 2001 Lexus ES300
• January 1998-July 2001 Lexus RX300

1996-2001 Toyota 5SFE I4

• August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
• June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
• August 1996-April 1999 Toyota Celica