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The horn is the same fuse. You need to have the power point plug that blows the fuse replaced it is shorted inside, a common problem. Remove the dash panel from the car and the receptacle is held into the dash with a large sheet metal nut, unscrew that and unplug the wiring to it making a note of which wires go where on the plug.
The horn should be behind the grille or on one of the fenders in the engine compartment. If you unplug it and the fuse does not blow I would say the horn is done.
sounds like you have a short in the clock spring assembly behind the steering wheel, remove the plastic cover from the steering colum and unplug the connector for the horn reinstall fuse and make sure it dosent blow while horn is unplugged, replace clockspring if fault is gone
try unplugging the horns to see if they are the problem. If the fuse still blows, the problem is the wires from the relay to the horns. If the fuse doesn't blow, plug in one horn at a time to see which one is bad.
Here is an idea, when do you blow the fuse key on, key on engine running, key on engine running hitting the break pedal? Try and get the key on without blowing fuse if possible, then one at a time try those circuit loads ie: horn, brake pedal and so on, if you isolate which load is pulling to many amps(blowing fuse) unplug that load itself, then restart testing, see if fuse stays ok. You can also substitue the fuse with a circuit breaker and unplug each load until click(of breaker) stops.
you may have a short in one of the horn them self . the easy to test is to unplug both horns then see if the fuse blows. if not plug in the horn one at a time . and see which one blows the fuse . replace the one that dose. if you have only one horn still do the test.
it's the horn relay has a short to ground which closes your swich and will make the horn stay on. replacing the relay (usually found under the hood in the fuse box) that should resolve the issue if not then you would have to trace the ground.
If you have access to a volt meter turn it to dc volts and unplug the horn have some one activate horn while you check the volts. should have around 12volts. If you do its the horn itself.
Hello, although from your brief description of fault May I offer assistance? Not on a Chevrolet but a Volvo 740, the Button on the steering wheel for the horn are Copper semi circular type and sprung loaded. Me being ham fisted with annoyance pushed the button too hard, it worked ok at the time of use but a few minutes later World WAR 3! had to pull plug on horns themselves to silence them.
So FixYa resolution? Check Horn button itself Cuz it'll be stuck!
Cheer's
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><
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