I've had this problem for 4 months. I'll let you know what I've checked and done: I've replaced the cam and crank angle sensors with no change. I was told by a shop the valves were burned so I pulled the heads and had them rebuilt, no change. Timing shouldn't be a problem, its an old school timing chain. I don't want to say its impossible to slip, but if it did there are probably bigger issues to deal with first. A stretched chain the pcm could probably adjust for. Besides, the timing marks are internal so there is no way to conveniently check it. If you're confident the plugs, wires, and coil are good then you should check the fuel pressure. To low of pressure could be a plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, or weak fuel pump (unlikely). If you have gas in the vacuum line, the regulator is bad. I have no fuel pressure when I turn on the ignition but I hear the pump whirl up. The pressure is perfect when its started (for the 3.3 is 49psi w/vacuum, 55psi without). The second the ignition is shut off, fuel pressure drops to 0. I pulled all the plugs after running the car and found cylinder 1's plug soaked with gas. The wire ohms out, and spark plug tester shows its getting juice. I swapped the spark plug with another cylinder and the problem stays with cylinder 1. I believe mine is a fuel injector issue. I had them professionally cleaned but all the computer read out shows is flow rate and spray pattern... not if its stuck open, flooding the cylinder. I can also hear each one click when touched with a stethoscope. I'm going to the junk yard to pick up a couple injectors and see if replacing that one helps. Good luck! I've had this problem for 4 months. I'll let you know what I've checked and done: I've replaced the cam and crank angle sensors with no change. I was told by a shop the valves were burned so I pulled the heads and had them rebuilt, no change. Timing shouldn't be a problem, its an old school timing chain. I don't want to say its impossible to slip, but if it did there are probably bigger issues to deal with first. A stretched chain the pcm could probably adjust for. Besides, the timing marks are internal so there is no way to conveniently check it. If you're confident the plugs, wires, and coil are good then you should check the fuel pressure. To low of pressure could be a plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, or weak fuel pump (unlikely). If you have gas in the vacuum line, the regulator is bad. I have no fuel pressure when I turn on the ignition but I hear the pump whirl up. The pressure is perfect when its started (for the 3.3 is 49psi w/vacuum, 55psi without). The second the ignition is shut off, fuel pressure drops to 0. I pulled all the plugs after running the car and found cylinder 1's plug soaked with gas. The wire ohms out, and spark plug tester shows its getting juice. I swapped the spark plug with another cylinder and the problem stays with cylinder 1. I believe mine is a fuel injector issue. I had them professionally cleaned but all the computer read out shows is flow rate and spray pattern... not if its stuck open, flooding the cylinder. I can also hear each one click when touched with a stethoscope. I'm going to the junk yard to pick up a couple injectors and see if replacing that one helps. Good luck!
and for codes 12 and 32: 12 - Battery has been disconnected within last 50 key-on cycles 32 - Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit 32 -Required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic test
His problem is with the EGR.
Also, I have no codes.
and for codes 12 and 32: 12 - Battery has been disconnected within last 50 key-on cycles 32 - Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit 32 -Required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic test
His problem is with the EGR.
AnonymousMar 21, 2014
fuel injectorfuel injector
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have you checked the cylinder compressions as backfire and blue smoke can be a symptom of low compression , either rings or valve seats but would need a dropdown test to be sure
The obd light with tell specifically what it is, is it gas or rotten egg - the latter means catalytic converter, gas smell probably flooded or not firing on one or more cylinders, need more details. Also, if the light is flashing it's warning of catalytic damage - raw fuel hitting the cat, smell could be heat from cat trying to burn off raw fuel,it will glow red hot.
yes it is a blown head gasket also probally a broken valve these engines do not like heat do your self a favor and stop driving it your doing more damage to it everytime you start it
Three things you should check using a good code checker which can read sensor outputs - the throttle position sensor (TPS), the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and the EGR valve. While you are at it, replace the PCV valve.
Look out under hood on drivers side for a power relay these are known to blow.If its blown it will not allow any power to the ignition system at all.It should be in a fuse panel under the hood.
I know you mentioned the EGR valve has been replaced, but you may have a bad 'new' part. I know the car is electronic, but has anyone checked its ignition timing (timing belt been looked at, I know it only has 77k on it). Is the fuel pressure regulator OK and it vacumm supply?
The clamp bolt in the center of the steering column put a small cut in the #5 ignition wire and sent the code to the computer for multiple ignition failures(I forget exactly the terminology that they used and what code; I think it was 0300). The arching must have told the computer to richen up the mixture because you could smell raw fuel. I replaced the wires and ran a can of Seafoam through one of the vacuum lines(brake booster) and all seems well. If I had listened to everything I read at other websites I would have been replacing the Cats and the Ignition Coils-very expensive items. Instead it cost me $50 for a set of wires.
you haven't said if its petrol or diesel so i'm assuming its petrol since your smelling sulfur sounds if you have a misfire causes could be plugs,leads or ign coil i suspect its ign coil these are common to go.
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected P0354 Ignition Coil 4 Control Circuit P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit You need to check injetror wires an coil wires .If good, The new coil my not be good.The Injector my be bad. If good it the ECM Check all fuses.
My code flashed 12 and 32 what are those codes for
I've had this problem for 4 months. I'll let you know what I've checked and done: I've replaced the cam and crank angle sensors with no change. I was told by a shop the valves were burned so I pulled the heads and had them rebuilt, no change. Timing shouldn't be a problem, its an old school timing chain. I don't want to say its impossible to slip, but if it did there are probably bigger issues to deal with first. A stretched chain the pcm could probably adjust for. Besides, the timing marks are internal so there is no way to conveniently check it. If you're confident the plugs, wires, and coil are good then you should check the fuel pressure. To low of pressure could be a plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, or weak fuel pump (unlikely). If you have gas in the vacuum line, the regulator is bad. I have no fuel pressure when I turn on the ignition but I hear the pump whirl up. The pressure is perfect when its started (for the 3.3 is 49psi w/vacuum, 55psi without). The second the ignition is shut off, fuel pressure drops to 0. I pulled all the plugs after running the car and found cylinder 1's plug soaked with gas. The wire ohms out, and spark plug tester shows its getting juice. I swapped the spark plug with another cylinder and the problem stays with cylinder 1. I believe mine is a fuel injector issue. I had them professionally cleaned but all the computer read out shows is flow rate and spray pattern... not if its stuck open, flooding the cylinder. I can also hear each one click when touched with a stethoscope. I'm going to the junk yard to pick up a couple injectors and see if replacing that one helps. Good luck!
Also, I have no codes.
and for codes 12 and 32:
12 - Battery has been disconnected within last 50 key-on cycles
32 - Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit
32 -Required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic test
His problem is with the EGR.
fuel injector
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