It is a 1500 V8, Z71 4 x 4. I have replaced 1 rotor and set of pad for my back brakes and now less then a year later the pads are worn out and one of the rotors is torn up. It seem like I am only getting braking in the rear and not in the front at all.
SOURCE: Constant replacement of rear rotors
first i would the car to a professional auto repair shop and have the brakes evaluated. you may have to pay a small fee, but it will pay for itself in the long run. it sounds like the rear calipers are sticking or dragging, or the parking brake is also dragging. the rear calipers are actuated, they stop the car in normal braking and they also are used when the parking brake is applied, the caliper piston will move out and keep the car from rolling when the parking brake is applied. worst case senerio you may need to replace the rear calipers, caliper brackets, rear brake hoses and both rear rotors, unless they can be resurfaced. the vibration or pulsation is more than likely excessive runout or thickness variation in these rotors from the calipers dragging (not releasing). also if the car takes too much effort to stop and you have had to replace these rotors 4 times, that is not normal. have a repair shop check to see if the brake fluid is contaminated. a good and quick sign to check for contamination is if the rubber under the brake fluid cap is distorted.please do not drive this vehicle until it is checked out by a professional auto repair shop. thanks
SOURCE: Rear brakes replacement
The Rotors would have to be Grooved Beyond Resurfacing to Change them. Check and see if they have very deep Grooves. If Not you just need pads. Some Places will do this for 75.00 and others will Charge upwards of 200 to 400 Bucks for Service. Just do some Calling and Check out Prices first.
SOURCE: 2006 Malibu Maxx - rotors were out of round.
In order to retract the pistons on the rear calipers you need to use a special tool that will rotate the piston in a clockwise direction.It may be possible to try to use a strong needle nose plier.Apply force against the U shaped slots on the piston and rotate clockwise until the piston bottoms out.Before you reinstall the caliper make sure that the recessed slots are at 12 and 6 "o"clock..the slots align with one or two bumps on the inside pad.
If you are having problems with your calipers rebuilt one are a good option.If only the caliper slide pins are sticking they can be cleaned and lubricated.Pin lubricant sometimes comes with a set of brake pads.Other than that lube may be purchased separately at an automotive supply store.
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
SOURCE: I REPLACED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS
Try replacing the brake hose. Sometimes they wear out, get soft and expand inside to the point that they restrict fluid returning to the mater cylinder.
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