Which fuse is the starter relay fuse? - 1997 Ford Escort

The diagram I have shows no starter relay. The database I use isn't perfect, but, it's all I have. If the picture is wrong, my bad.

Daryl, fuse #59 in the driver's side fuse box under the hood powers your starter relay. Attached is a pic of your starter relay, which could also be the reason your starter isn't engaging.

Also check the fuse for your starter relay and it's holder (polish off deposits)

Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.

The starter has a relay, not a fuse. Check your owner's manual. Switch the starter relay with the headlamp relay or another relay that is the same and see if that works. If it does, you have a bad relay. Get one cheap at pick a part/

Check battery must fully charged, check starter fuse and relay Check 12 volt wire from ignition switch to starter relay in the fuse box ,then check 12 volt wire from starter relay to starter motor solenoid if if it's everything is ok then change the starter.

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

Hi, if you're talking about the 10 amp fuse #12, pull out the starter relay and put in a fresh fuse. Try to start the truck and then check the fuse. If the fuse is OK, get a new starter relay. If the fuse burned without the relay, there is a short between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If you have a manual transmission, you can further isolate the short by pulling the connector off the switch above the clutch pedal. Put another fuse in and try again. If the fuse burns, the short is between the ignition switch and the clutch switch. If not, it's between the clutch switch and the starter relay. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Replace the starter relay in the fuse box behind the glove box. The fuse ONLY powers the control coil portion of the starter relay. If it's blowing, there's a short in the winding or a short between the relay and the theft deterrent module. Bad relay is most likely culprit

Try tapping on the starter with a hammer...it may be that it is stuck on the flywheel or that the solenoid on the starter has gone bad....Be sure to check your ignition fuse(s), and any relays. There may be a fuse box located under the hood with fuses and relays inside...look for any ignition fuses, starter fuses, and starter relays...Check to see if these fuses are ok...to check a relay...have someone else turn the key and carefully listen to the relay to see if it clicks...if not then change the relay...if so, then most probable cause would be the starter and or the starter solenoid

Your Starter Relay, located in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel is sticking and causing the Starter "Run-On".
Locate the Starter Relay in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel.
The identification and location of the Relays/Fuses should be located in your Owners Manual, or on the inside rear Cover.
There are usually Relays in the Box/Panel which are the same Type (size and shape). Switch out the suspected bad Starter Relay with another non-engine Relay that is KNOWN to work.
Recheck the operations of both these functions.
If the Starter is not still experiencing "Run-On" and the other function is now malfunctioning. The suspected Relay is bad and needs to be replaced.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!