94 lincoln mark 8 starts, raises rpm's like normal, and shuts down. One time I was able to keep in running for 5 minutes and even put on the A/C and it stayed running, but it has no real power and I had to keep my foot on it. I disconnected battery to reset everything. That didn't do anything. Put a new fuel filter 3 months ago and Installed new plugs. The plugs looked perfect as usual. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and had to toggle ignition switch 6 times to build up pressure to about 40 psi. Then started car. This time it ran a little longer and pressure stayed pretty even. Now if I do that little trick of toggling the ignition, I can keep it running and even idles but really rough. Exhaust looks like I'm running way rich. Car has 157000 on it and was running great yesterday. Any ideas?
Took the car to a mechanic, they couldn’t find the exact problem. Here’s their report (Scan computer, codes KOEO 159, KOER 116,225,137,632, check fuel psi engine off 44psi, engine running 40 psi, both O2 sensors bad, running rich. Installed new os sensors and computer sees rich running now, tried mass air flow and on change. Check injector pulse (good), injectors ohm 14.9 to 14.8 all OK. Smoke intake system and lower intake leaking, removed 2 spark plugs and check compresson on each side, #2 100 psi, #6 125psi, spec says 160 is normal, plugs fouled bad, grounds to computer good. We can not come up with a 100% confirmed fix.)
You have two pumps,I guess you know that ,if you already did one. Did you check fuel pressure at the rail and check out the electronic pressure regulator? What codes are coming up and do they stay set?
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sounds like antitheft system is acting up..needs reprogramed maybe..pull the negative cable with the key on....kills everything..then shut the key off..reconnect the negative.. turn the key to run position for a few seconds(resets all factory presets) see if it will start..
The idle is controlled by the PCM, there is nothing to adjust,it is all drive by wire
Does it go down to 750 rpm after about one minute from a cold start ? About 1200 cold-- that is normal Are you in a hurry-- let the car warn up, it won't run on O2 Sensors for about 5 min until warm
Make sure your using 5W-20 full syn oil every 4,000 miles at most & change the power steering fluid & trans on all veh every 3 years-- if you want them to last
I have a 2004 LS V8
Do you have stored codes ?
Have you had other issues lately ?
Is the battery original if so replace it, that is your problem
Have to get battery from dealers parts counter as it has a vent for the hose out of trunk
The price is on the web site & is not discounted to repair shops
Hi Richard, I'm not an expert on Jags, just a little jealous I don't have one. Looks like a very nice vehicle. Have a close look, inspecting all hoses and vacuum pipes on the intake manifold side of the engine for any damage or loose fitting. The problem seems to be a leakage of air which is raising the idle speed. Regards John
Yeah... particularly the O2 sensors.. running rich ... weak
and intermittent...
Been there... Ultimately gave up a took mine to dealer.
After floundering around (and seeing I had already been EVERYWHERE they were looking) for two weeks...
They found one of the catalytic converters was collapsing blocking the exhaust... (jobbed it ou to a local muffler shop).
I have still never identified an elegant way to diagnose this issue...
Got to a point where it would not run...
At that point (had I known) I would have liked to try to remove the catalytic converter at the header to see if it would actually run
(CAN'T... one piece)
Liquid wrench, & ear plugs would figure prominently in this process...
ELSE
do look up you muffler & cat prices BEFORE going to an EXHAUST SHOP ($$$$)...
I figure I paid $1700 where a mere $700 would have been pricy
(installed... I bet you can do better).
ok i have a 1998 durango with the 5.2L 318 engine. had trouble with a bad cell in my battery. I went out bought an optima red top battery for it 800cca. put it in and had same trouble. No start without putting foot on gas. wouldn't stay running without holding foot on gas. CPU has to relearn it's programming once you unplug it for long periods of time. mine was without power for about 2-3 weeks till i got new battery. Start with this.. first check under air filter make sure a squirrel hasn't made a mess under your air filter and it's clogging the air intake. Then pull off the lid to your injector cover ( the screw down lid coming from the air box ( with air filter in it) to "carb") make sure all your cables move freely. put that all back together and close hood. Start truck with foot slightly on gas pedal to get started. keep it at about 1k to 1500 rpm for about 1-2 minutes. Rev motor to about 2500rpm and let it die out if it will. Get out lock doors with key fob if you have it. if not make sure to lock doors. ( trust me it worked for me) let sit for 5 minutes. come back out and unlock door and relock door 3 times with fob ( if you have it ) or key if you don't have a fob. Then unlock it with the key and enter vehicle. Start truck as before and keep it around 1k to 1500 rpm again for about 30 seconds rev it up and should keep running. Mine did. I think the iac was stuck from sitting and has now since loosened up. Good luck hope ti works for you.
Check the water coolant thermostat. If it is stuck in the "open" position you are heating up all the water in the coolant system and this will take time. The thermostat keeps the water in the engine until warmed up to almost normal running temperature, only then does it allow the coolant to enter the radiator.
There is no specified timing marks,there is a special tool required to align the crankshaft and the camshafts.Snap on sells a tool for this application but it is very expensive.I would suggest you have a repair shop do this for you.
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