1998 Dodge Ram 2500 part number 52009648AA brake line connection.

2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5 9L 1994 2001 Ram 1500 2500 5 9L and 1500 5 2L Air...

Question Where is the low side port Dodge Diesel Diesel Truck Resource...

Fix your car

Replacing Distributors: 1998 to 2005 models

• Trace the spark plug wires to the distributor; it will be at the back of the engine block, in a cramped space.
  

• Disconnect the negative battery cable to the distributor and unhook the air cleaner tube. Unscrew or unhook the clamps holding the distributor cap in place, and unscrew the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector with a screwdriver.
  

• Matchmark the distributor housing and the rotor for later realignment, as well as the distributor housing and the intake manifold. Unbolt the holding clamp and remove the distributor.
  

• Set the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) mark of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke with a socket with breaker bar (long-handled ratchet).
  

• Install the Ram distributor, replace the clamp and lightly tighten the bolt. The distributor part number is A1303801 from Parts Train, but numbers differ from different manufacturers. Order using the model, year and engine size.
  

• Turn the distributor in its seating so the rotor lines up with the No. 1 cylinder mark on the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. Bolt the clamp bolt to 200 foot pounds (22.5 Nm).
  

• Reattach the CMP sensor connector and use the screws or clamps to replace the distributor cap. Connect the air cleaner tube and the negative battery cable
  

Hi, if the fitting is leaking, it may be cross threaded. You may want to take it out and put some leak lock on the threads. If the line it self is leaking, it will need to be replaced.
Shastalaker7

Hi!!

Did you have the ABS sensors checked ?? The brake fluid level when low also activates the Brake and ABS lights?? Drive truck to an AutoZone store and ask to have computer codes scanned. This is a free service for all customers. This will help you to pinpoint the problem.

Good Luck!!

Don't forget to rate this post.

Check all tubing and junctions for leaks in the fuel evaporation control system. The ECU has detected an issue with intake manifold pressure and is indicating that fuel vapour recovery system is perhaps to blame. Sometimes this can be connected to a fault in the manifold differential pressure circuit which lies on the vacuum line leading to the EGR valve. Also quickly check that the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve is OK by connecting and reconnecting its vacuum line and listening to engine note changes. No engine note change indicates the EGR is probably jammed shut with exhaust crud and needs a general clean up. Sometime these codes detect the symptom and not the cause so you just have to work your way back and eliminate what it might be.

the vent tube for the ring and pinion housing is the only tubing made of rubber for the axle

It will be a lot easier to do with the bed removed. It will also save time. So unfortunately yes that is true.

Did you check the E-brake ? if not that take a look at the brakes ...transmission

You can be opening a can of worms...especially on a dodge...changing lines can be a pain, but can be done with some patience.....As for the line, check where it is connected. You say to the rubber line in rear...check the other end...trace the line back to other connection. Measure line.....most parts stores have the proper size lines, but the lengths are different. You can use multiple pieces, to get the proper length you need, but never use pressure fittings to connect multiple lines. Again patience...you have to make the proper bends in the line...use tubing bender, not hands..you dont want to kink line.....now for the worms....the bleeder screws...you got to make sure they open...some freeze up, and break. Now you gotta change the caliper or wheel cylinder. Did the master cylinder run dry? If so, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder and hopefully the seals are still good....then bleed all four wheels.

Depends on your mechanic ablilites. Steel brake line is basically 0.188 inch diameter line, and the metric 6mm line dia is very closely same.
Dodge uses ISO bubble flare , and not the American standard double flare at the end of the steel tube line. This ISO bubble flare on the steel line then fits into its mate female end which is the rubber hose connector end.
So, easiest way to get rid of the ISO bubble flare and change to American double flare end is:
Some automotive stores such as Parts Plus Auto Stores carry the brass brakeline adapter which has one end being the male end that fits nicely into the rubber hose with its ISO bubble female fitting, while the other end of the brass line adapter is the female end which has the double flare so you can then insert the steel line replacement with standard double flare into this end of the adapter.
Steel line , bungy brake line or equivalent is fine, and has the brake line nuts already on it, and is flared for you too. If you want to stay with ISO bubble line fittings you can get that in bungy brake line lengths too but it is less common for some stores to carry, and that is why the conversion brake line fitting adapter mentioned is so easy a way to change from ISO bubble flare to a double flare for easier use of all steel line being standard American double flared brake line. The brake lines come in straight lengths, 2ft 4ft, and 6ft, so you can use them to fit your necessary total length by connecting them with tubing couplers which the steel tube lines brake line nut gets threaded into.
My same year Durango had its rear line blow thru last year, due to the rusting of the steel brake line. I just got done last week, doing a entire steel line replacement myself. It was a medium sized effort for sure. You should check the other lines for the entire brake system to see if you need to replace more than just that section which failed for you, as my lines showed heavy corrosion at many other locations in the brake line system.
It is easy to double flare brake line tubing , and Sears sells its craftsman brand of brake line double flare tool kit for that purpose at about 60 bucks if I recall it right.
One thing you should do when doing your own double flaring, is to use a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the flare at its widest flared end, to insure you are within the required diameter of flare to insure proper sealing when you tighten down the tube flare nuts. I recall the flare diameter is supposed to be 0.272 inches , plus or minus 0.006 inches ( so range of dial caliper measuring of that formed flare should be between 0.266 inch and 0.278 inch) to insure the right diameter of flare for good sealing.
You can also get steel galvanized tubing line in coils of 20ft and more, with a bunch of brake line nuts ( all this is standard american brake line nuts, for double flared line fitting) from Inline Tube company; www.inlinetube.com.
Check out the great tech info from FEDHILL website, www.fedhillusa.com
Good luck, I did it so you can do it and feel satisfied and safe for the family with solid and sound steel line that is much better than chancing an accident via leaving the rusted line in place.