1995 chevy tahoe 4wd. 5.7 liter when cooled down, starting is normal . Right after, engine almost stalls but Idle air control kicks in and keeps it running. eventually it is idling but rouph. On excelleration engine seems to be suddenly without power then power, surging forward. sitting and warming it up, it eventually smooths out and can seem to run perfect. takes about an hour. let sit 3 hrs and it runs rouph again at startup . so far I replaced 3 bad vacuum lines, rebuilt throttle body and injector body also 2 new injectors, new pressure regulator, fuel filter, idle air control valve and throttle control sensor. checked fuel line back to tank, no leaks. getting perfect fuel cone to barrels. did not check pressure( could not find connector) But it appears fine and without change even when engine is ready to stall. fuel pump runs fine. Not sure what else. Somone said Distributor Modulem Please help

There could be several possible reasons for your Chevy Tahoe to start and then die immediately. Here are a few things you can check:

1. Fuel system: Make sure you have enough fuel in the tank and that the fuel pump is functioning properly. Check the fuel filter as well.
2. Ignition system: Check the ignition system, including the spark plugs, wires, distributor, and ignition coil. Make sure they are all working properly.
3. Idle air control valve: The idle air control valve (IAC) helps regulate the engine's idle speed. If it's faulty or clogged, it can cause the engine to stall. Check the IAC valve and clean or replace it if necessary.
4. Mass air flow sensor: The mass air flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine and helps determine the correct fuel-to-air ratio. If it's dirty or faulty, it can cause the engine to stall. Clean or replace the MAF sensor if needed.
5. Security system: If your Chevy Tahoe has a factory-installed security system, it may be malfunctioning and preventing the engine from starting. Try resetting the security system and see if that helps.

If you're unable to diagnose and fix the problem on your own, it may be best to take your vehicle to a trusted mechanic or dealership for further diagnosis and repair.

dont drive it. find the cause and fix it now.
Hot and cold engine or BOTH>?
1995 Tracker, no tranny , no 4wd , on engine options stated.
Exact high RPM in neutral, not stated...... 1500 is normal cold.
keeps going in Neutral. (nah , you have 5 ways to stop any car.
key, hand brake, foot brake and neutral. and with 4wd, 1 more neutral.
keep that in mind driving any car.
this car has up to 3 throttle cables that can stick. and more!

1: floor mats hit the pedal>? ala. Toyota style (lawsuits)
2: the three cables are, throttle. , cruise and A/T transmission kick down cable. if car is M/T and no cruise it has 1 cable.
so disconnect it, throttle fixed? (disconn,. 1 by 1, bingo?

no cure?, then its not the pedal , you meant just high idle.
yes, replace the cable or bad parts three.
ok say its not the cables.. (tests proved that)
the 95 came with 2 engines, 8valves and 16valves,
they work differently (8v love so race, 16v loves to stall)

1: ISC Stuck open, common.
2: 8v, any air leaks at all , will cause super high idle speeds.
3: throttle valve in the throttle body is stuckopen (gunk) or the return spring broken (very very rare the latter,in fact never heard of one breaking)
4: IAC (thermal idle control stuck open ,(my 97 was). and lots more.
5: on the 16v it takes 2 failures. to make high idle.
gross rich running engine (cold engine its normal) and any air leak
once hot the engine can not race unless there is huge overfueling
and an air leak.
6: the 8v has this device on the side of the throttle body.
called a dash pot. its just a fast idle vacuum servo.
if stuck open the engine will scream full time....
7: ECU stuck in limphome, can cause too high idle speeds.

we need to know which engine
http://www.fixkick.com/find-parts.html
8v or 16v first.
then does the idle race hot or cold or both (engine temperatures)
if it races , then how fast?, RPM the dash tachometer tells you that.

it can be as simple as a 50cent hose cracked.
to a dead ISC. (idle speed control) IAC is thermal idle air controller.
the IAC must be closed on a hot engine,
if the the engine never gets hot,it will scream full time.

You may have a defective neutral safety switch. The switch is located on the outside if the transmission case and it is where the cable connects from the shooter inside the car. This covers the no start, the stall is likely due to a dirty throttle valve and idle speed control valve.

Engine stall or RPM fluctuates at idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control.
Below is a picture of the switch I mentioned.

If the only problem is idle and it runs grat above ide then the most likely component is the Idle Air Control valve. This is providing you have no codes stored indicating something else.

Yes, it can, How long is car staying on? Can you drive the car by keeping some gas to car or is it just stalling?

Fuel filter. Timing/timing chain. Idle air control valve. Idle sensor. Vacuum leak. Probably one of the above, but the filter is cheapest place to start. Change your air filter too, if you haven't for a while.

the idle flare up is when u start it the rpms go above normal idle speed for about 3-5 seconds then comes down to normal idle speed,if this car is stalling in park then all u need to do is remove the air cleaner from the throttle body and clean the the throttle blade and bore with a rag with some throttle plate cleaner on it that u can buy in a spray can at all auto parts stores and also take the idle control solenoid offhte side of the throttle body which is near the oil cap and has 2 t20torx head screws holding it on and clean the cone shaped plunger on the end of it with the same cleaner,after these two things are cleaned,reassemble the air cleaner and take it for a short ride so it can relearn idle,hope this helps

this is caused by slow engine idle speed, do the procedure below.
Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.