I noticed smoke coming from my dash around the radio and ac controls but it stopped. I soon realized the AC would now only work on the first 3 settings but not the high (4th) setting. Since this happened, I noticed that the switch is no longer illuminated. At the dealership i was told it was most likley a relay. Any Ideas?
Most likely, because you saw smoke, a wire got cooked off the switch connection. This nay have burned out the resistor also.
SOURCE: MY AC AND HEATER FAN BLOWER IS RUNNING ON HIGH
Normally i would suggest replacing the blower motor resistors but the fact the fan is still on with the controls disconnected throws me off a bit. It sounds like the 12v+ wire to the blower motor is shorted to 12v. I don't have a wiring diagram handy for that vehicle but look for a high speed fan relay. It sounds like the relay is sticking. Would be under the dash, likely above the passenger side foot well.
SOURCE: Smoke coming out of a/c vents in dash. A/C still works, but not on highest setting.
Are you sure it's smoke? Probably not smoke, the coils are freezing up and the air is so cold it condenses and looks like smoke coming out.
SOURCE: heating / air conditioning control stuck to front defrost vents
There is a vacuum leak under the hood. Find the vacuum line on the passenger side where it comes through the firewall and follow it to the engine. You system needs vacuum to operate and without it the default setting is on defrost for safety reasons.
SOURCE: 2004 Chevy Suburban Temperature Control Issue
NO, PROBLEMS ARE NOT RELATED SEAT MODULE NEEDS TO BE PROGRAMMED AT CHEVY DEALER TO FIX ISSUE. IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC HVAC CONTROL UNIT WHEN YOU REPLACE THAT YOU WILL ALSO HAVE TO HAVE THAT REPROGRAMMED WITH THE LATEST UPDATES. BUT THERE ARE ALSO A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE ACTUATORS THAT CONTROL THE MODE AND TEMP DOORS. THE ONLY POSSIBLE WAY TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM CORRECTLY IS WITH A GM SCAN TOOL. GOOD LUCK
SOURCE: Water leak on passenger floorboard also an ac problem
probably leaking heater core. you may have low coolant level now. the only place water comes in the cabin is for the heater, that has got to be it. the heater core can be bypassed (like my car's is) by simply cutting the hose that leads into the car and leave about a foot, make a big U out of it and plug the other side of the hose into the coolant passage that returns from the heater core and leads into the intake manifold. pretty easy you will need a knife, hose clamps, and common sense. the third one is a little harder to come by! :)
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