ABS bleeding technique on GMC Yukon

Need special tool (electronic) But before that read this:http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems.

I want to know a ill bit more about how the problem started. If it just went from having brakes to not having brakes it could be the brake master cylinder, or on gm vehicles they have a brake proportion valve. Let me know how it started please

Of course they should have checked the parking brakes too. On the Yukon XL, the parking brakes are brake shoes that operate inside of a drum that is molded to the interior side of the rear disc brake rotors. I would take it back to the shop and voice my frustration if I were you and tell them that you feel they should do the parking brakes at no charge for your time and aggravation. They were right there to replace them if they re-surfaced your rotors anyway!

Bench Bleed the M/C first, then do not let it run dry during system bleeding. Parts stores sell a kit that helps installed m/c bleeding.

Hello,
Brake Bleeding
Purging air and moisture from your binders
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

ABS Speed Sensor Service
A clean sensor is a happy sensor
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

Drum Brakes - Rear Brake Drum Adjustment
It's stupid not to adjust your rear drum brakes
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

Replacement Rotors
Friction, brake rotors, and you
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

Power-Bleeding Brake Systems
Air today, gone tomorrow
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

Replacing Brake Pads
How to replace worn pads
CarCare - Maintenance - Brakes

Bleeding Power Steering
Getting rid of that air in there
CarCare - Maintenance - BrakesThanks

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

There is nothing special that you need to do. You need to make sure that you bleed the brake system starting at the master cylinder FIRST. You also want to make sure that you do not have any more leaks or open lines. Do not turn the car on until the brakes are bled or the air will go into the other circuits. The other thing to look out for is bad brake pads, If these are worn they can cause kind of a spongy pedal.

u will need to check the wheel speed sensors behind the brake rotors to see if they got damaged or disconnected during the brake job, as long as the ABS light is on the Anti-lock brake system is disabled, regular braking without the need of ABS will feel fine.

Hi Tora, Go to the back brakes. This is where the prob could be. But with you bleeding the brakes, the peddle has went beyond its normal travel causing the rubbers in the master cylinder to get messed up. Happens too often! Replace the master cylinder 'after' you had a good look at the back! Frankster016