Sounds like this may be the electronic ignition module. Have it checked.
SOURCE: 1993 ford ranger no spark
The first thought that comes to mind is to check the ignition system, but to correctly check you will need certian meters. ALSO because of the extreme high secondary voltage produced by the ignition system you must be very carefulwhen performing this test.
The first thing you will need is a "calibrated ignation tester", you can buy one at most auto parts stores. You can get several different types so make sure buy one that can be calibrated for the high voltage ignition system.
Disconnect any sparkplug wire and then attach the calibrated tester to the plug wire. Then you have to clip the tester to ground source on the engine, like a bolt or a metal bracket. Then have an assistant crank the engine over while you watch the tester looking for a consistent bright spark. If you get a spark that means enough voltage is present to reach the sparkplug and fire it. Now do this to the next plug and so on until you've checked them all. If you are getting spark that means you ignition coil pack is good and your problem may lay with your sparkplugs.
NOW. If you don't get spark, or it's not a consistent spark you next need to check the sparkplug wires. First you can try swapping them or better yet use an ohmmeter and check for continuity and resistance in the wire. Rule of thumb is for every foot of sparkplug wire there should be 5000 ohms of resistance.
Now if everything so far has checked out to be OK you need to check the battery voltage at the ignition coil. To do this disconnect the coils electrical connector turn your key on, but not cranking your engine, attach a regular 12 volt test light to the connector. If it doesn't light up check the fuse that protects the ignition circut. If it does light up next you can check the primary and secondary resistance of the coil pack. If all of these things check ok your problem may be what is known as a crankcase position sensor. To test this is hard to explain, but I'll try. Take a LED test light and hook the wire up to the positive + side of the battery. Next using the probe end you have to check all of the negitive terminals on the ignaition coil harness. What you are looking for is a flashing of the test light while an assistant turns the key on and cranks the engine.
If no problem is found you will probably have to take your vehicle to a qualified shop and have the PCM checked out.
I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: Ford Ranger will not start
Does the car click when you turn the ignition? If it does, it is probably your starter. If the engine does not turn when you turn the ignition.
SOURCE: Ford ranger timing belt changing
My 1996 Ford Ranger, battery light came on 2 days ago. It hasn't given any other problems all winter...yesterday it died, the warmest day of the year so far. It's got 2 more years on the warranty. And the sound it makes when trying to start is a long trail of "clicks" rather than the usual single click, dead battery sound.
Right before it died yesterday, pressure to the gas peddal produced back fires until finally it died altogether. Minutes before that I noticed my indicator began to falter, blinking very slowly. Within 5min. the truck died completly.
What would electrical failures have to do with backfiring? What could be the problem(s)?
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It turns over great, there just is no spark. Timing is right on. When truck quit, I was on freeway and it abruptly died as though I turned off the key (I did not turn the key off). I checked for spark and there was none. I replaced the timing belt being as though the old one was worn some, however that was not the problem as I still have no spark
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