One of the rear calipers on my 1993 Saturn SL2 is leaking fluid and I plan on replacing it. However, my Haynes manual says I should not attempt to bleed the rear brake since I don't have certain sensor eqpt. It claims that I will mess up the ABS system. The manual says that I have to take it to a mechanic with the right sensor eqpt. to bleed the rear brakes. Is that really necessary? What will happen if I bleed the rear brake myself?
You will need a helper to pump the pedal do it with the engine off have them pump the pedal hold it down and then open the bleeder do the several times til all the air is pushed out make sure not to let the reservoir go empty if it does you will need to bleed all 4 wheels
SOURCE: brakes will not bleed and stay up
Make sure bleeder fittings are on the top side of the front caliper,have seen them insatlled wrong left to right before & cause this problem.Also if you have ABS the abs modulator has to be bled also,there are bleeders on the unit.hope this helps
SOURCE: After replacing drive side caliper, both front
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words.
Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
SOURCE: have 99 saturn sl2. car pulls left upon hard
Assuming that the Tires for both Left and Right are:
1. Equal Sizes.
2. Both Properly Inflated - this is a common problem.
3. Have equal wear on them. Example: If the Left Tire is balding on the outside and the Right Tire is balding on the inside, this too is definite sign of an aligment issue; and will cause unequal braking.
Pulling left (or right) during a hard brake might actual mean your Wheel Alignment is way off. When you get one, get a 4-wheel and not just a 2-wheel alignment.
Also: you thought the right thing, but the Left Caliper or Left Brake Hose might also be bad (sticking) causing the left side to brake "harder" then the right side.
You can also Bleed the entire System (all four wheels) starting at the Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Front Right, followed by the Left Front.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
SOURCE: we replaced brakes, calipers, master
there are flat compression washers used to connect the flex hoses to the wheel cylinders. the only situation i have seen which mirrors yours is where those washers are not replaced prior to bleeding. i am assuming you are bleeding it correctly.
SOURCE: i need to replace the
Hi, if you can replace entire lines without making cuts or splices, the work can be done with line wrenches alone. Measure the bad lines from the wheels to the next fitting and compare the stock lengths to the standard lengths available at your local parts store. If the available lines are a few inches longer than the original lines, that will do without splicing.
A line wrench is like a box-end wrench except there is a cut in the wrench to allow it to pass over the line. Sometimes you can loosen a brake fitting with an open-end wrench, but it is not recommended due to the risk of rounding/stripping the fitting.
If you need to cut and splice the lines, you will need cutting and flaring tools.
You may need to bleed the brake lines after replacing the lines, but if you're careful to plug any open lines and not let the reservoir run dry, this could be minimized and could possibly be gravity bled.
Be careful to catch and clean up any fluid that comes out, as brake fluid is corrosive--especially to paint.
To gravity bleed, just open the bleeder on the right rear first and leave it open until pure fluid flows out. If it does not flow any fluid within 15 minutes, then you will need to pressure bleed. After clearing all air from the right line, bleed the left rear line.
You should know that this work is not expensive, so I recommend that unless you are comfortable doing it yourself, it may be a wise move to get an estimate from a brake shop. The labor is only about an hour or two at a good shop. If the car is not drivable, you would also need to factor in any tow fees.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.
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I wasn't really asking about the bleeding procedure. My question is, why does the Haynes manual for my specific vehicle say that I must take it to a mechanic to bleed the brakes IF I HAVE ABS? What will be the result on the ABS system if I bleed the brake myself?
i worked on saturns for 16years and never did anything special bleeding them out
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