The brake caliber on the right front brake will not engage and its new, the old one did the same, why?

SOURCE: The master cylinder brake lines broke before the proportion valve

Obviously you have a bunch of badly rusted lines. Better they failed while you were working on them rather than driving down the road! Carefully inspect the remainder of the lines and if in similar condition to the ones that failed, you need to replace them. When finished and system is tight, then bleed out system. (check it twice to ensure all air is gone.)

SOURCE: 1989 K-1500 Brake Problems

Did you replace your front brake lines as these are rubber and after time collapse causing the truck to pull in the opposite direction! In your case I'd say left front is crimped and blocks fluid and makes right front pull to the right. This is a common problem and one of the first items to replace on these trucks and at $30 cheap insurance.(REPLACE BOTH).

Rob Sinbad

• 709 Answers
• Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

SOURCE: problem with bleeding my breaks

this sounds like a autozone master cylinder. all you can do is go get another one. the best way, and quickest way to tell if this one is going to work is to install the master onto the booster and bleed it there by filling it up, snugging the lines and having someone inside to push the pedal down, you open the line and watch the stream. as long as you dont see air like when you bleed at the wheels. if you cant get a lack of air, take that 1 back too. the only way to get one thats good right off the bat is to buy the ac delco part it calls for. the people who "rebuild" these other ones dont often measure the inside bore when they put it back together. ive gone through 5 one time. cheers.

SOURCE: I have a 1997 chevy cavalier. I replaced wheel

sometimes if you leave the bleeder screw open it will gravity bleed the cylinder.Make sure master cyl is full and do one wheel at a time.I have seen this work, I have done it.