Chevy uplander power outlet not working

The horn going off is your anti-theft system. When you disconnected the battery, it lost its memory. Number one tip when changing batteries, maintain the power to the car with a charger, or wires to the old battery.

Reset procedure in the link

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/7rht5-chevrolet-uplander-ls-2007-chevy-uplander-wont-crank-due.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+chevy+uplander+security+reset

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A blown fuse does not create a draw, it makes an open circuit. You need to do some trouble shooting to find the source of the draw. An alternator can be a source of a power draw, or a light left on such as a map light or vanity light.

yes. all you need is a test light. check the fuse box with the key off. if the light is off. turn the key on. if the light comes on, wire it to that particular fuse

Even if the fuse shows no signs of being blown (one such sign might be a black spot), you might want to try a different fuse of the same amperage to make sure.
If the fuse is good, you have more work to do. Check whether power is getting to the outlet by testing it with a voltmeter or circuit tester. If the voltmeter shows power is reaching the outlet, the outlet itself is probably damaged from repeated use or simple misuse. Though chargers and other plug-ins are supposed to be of uniform size, some may be bigger or smaller than others.
time to get a new outlet then.

Hi Troy,

Without seeing the ports of the car and the plug of your charger, it would be difficult to diagnose with any certainty. I do have a suggestion however. Your note suggests that other devices do not cause the fuse to blow when they are used - it is only the charger for the phone. Since the charger works in other cars, it is probably not an overload condition due to a defective charger, but more likely a mismatched set of contacts between the plug and power port in your car when the two are mated. Some cars have slightly different sized power ports that can be either too tight or too loose for some plugs. Too tight ports could be causing parts internal to the charger's plug or car's power port to short together and blow the fuse.

We can get around this be using a different plug. The easiest way is to find a cord set that will plug into your car's power port and provides a simple extension for 1, 2 or 3 outlets. These can be found in auto parts stores and the automotive departments of stores like K-Mart, Sears, etc. Some examples look like these:





Insert the plug into the power port - and check that the fuse does not blow by checking the fuse - not by plugging something into the the outlet on the cord. If the fuse remains good, then it is safe to assume that the problem with your charger and the car's power port has been eliminated, and the car's power is available at each of the outlets of the new cord.

Try plugging the charger into the outlet of the new cord. If all is well, the charger should be working as expected. What we have done is removed the charger / car power port combination from the equation, by providing a different combination to do the same thing - but without the same physical connection that causes the fuse to blow.

You could achieve the same results by changing the charger plug under the right conditions - but many chargers now a days have circuitry inside them that change the car's 12 volts to something different. If you can find the voltage out of the charger and are able to match it with another - it must be the same voltage, polarity, current and phone power connector of course - it should work, too. You must be absolutely sure of the power requirements and your rewiring - if not, stick with the addition of a cord described above.

I hope this helps & good luck!

This is a FUSE Problem Check the Fuse and Also Be sure (If you have Children) that Nothing has been put inside the Sockets. Like Coins

Even thought the plug in is 12 volt. It's ouput is different. Most electronics have different ranges from 3-9 volts.
Does the 12 volt charger put out 12 volts? If so, it would burn up the electronics' capacitors on their power supplies.
How is the car's electronics doing? Are they too failing? If so, that would be a faulty voltage regulator, if not, I would hook up anything you use to the radio wires.
You cannot plug in anything directly to battery no matter what the person told you. Batteries charge, than release charge, a contiuous cycle. The power output is speratic and anything hooked straight up to the battery will need a fuse.

Sometimes Chevy calls the power outlets "Cigar".  This fuse is sometimes inside the driver's door on the left side of the dash, or under the hood in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).  It won't hurt to take any fuses out to check them.  Just make sure you don't take the ones with the yellow handles out.  Those are for your air bags.
Any further questions, please ask!!!  Please rate! Thanks!!

check these fuses:

under the hood fuse panel:

#23 - auxiliary power
#25 - ac/dc inverter

instrument panel fuse panel:

#29 - retained accessory power

if these fuses are good and they have power at the fuse panel, the outlet itself may be bad. if your inclined and you have a test light you can check to see if the outlet has power going to it by probing the wires on the back of the outlet if you can get to them. test the red and white wire for 12v positive and test the black wire for a good ground. if those wires test ok then it its the outlet itself that is bad. if the wires do not test ok then there is a break in a wire somewhere which will have to be traced and repaired

if the fuse is good and there is no relay then either you have a loose ground/positve wire or the socket is bad. you can easily purchase a after market socket from Napa or Oreillys for a few dollars of the problem is not a loose wire or bad fuse. good luck please rate this solution...thanks