Rearwindow/ door so....i have a 1990 Ford bronco. the rear window does not go down. i pulled the back panel on the rear door and I cant see a problem with it. I was thinking it was a fuse but my other power windows still work. Any ideas?

you have to climb over back seat and pull panel off tailgate pull the motor out and let window down by hand .

remove door panel whack motor with hammer,if window goes up replace motor if not switch.

I don't know if your talking about a big bronco or a bronco ll. I'm really not sure about the difference in sheetmetal, you may have to take off the old door & match it up with the replacement door. As for the windows and locks, as long as both doors had power locks & windows, make sure the replacement door still has the window glass in the door assembly. You may want to take the time & test the motor on the new door, finally make sure your wires will connect with replacement door.

you will need to take off door panel and roll the window down. You should be able to look inside and see the tracks it rolls up and down on. disconnect from tracks and pull old window out the top of door, slide new window in and hook to tracks, should be very easy to install on such an older truck.

CHECK THE RELAYS TO REAR WINDOWS AND REAR WIPER.

first try to replace the switch,
if not, you have to take out the door panel, and then you'll be able to get to the elevator, the motor comes out easy, it's fixed just with some screws

Your window fuse, relay or motor may be dying and no longer powerful enough to close your window all the way up. So as not to be repetitive, for the failure of your power driver side window and rear window, review this handy diagnostic article, which identifies the possible causes, from a bad fuse, relay to window motor, etc.:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Windshield_Windows_Window_Does_Not_Roll_Up_Down.htm

This should help narrow down your particular cause.
Brad

the window motor in the rear has gone bad. you will need to take off the access panel in the rear door to get to the window motor

The rear window has to be completely down in order to move the tailgate! You should be happy that your window is stuck up, unlike mine which is stuck all the way down! I have to completly take apart my tailgate!! If you want to try a trick to get the rear window down, my bronco has a rear window switch right next to the headlight knob, take the 2 purple wires on that window switch, and cross them, if your motor still works and if the wires are good, that should make the window go down!!! good luck, hope that helps!

These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your location with front and rear rather then left and right because it depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.