SOURCE: My 2003 Nissan Sentra is getting terrible mileage
Two possible problems
1 - O2 Sensor
2 - Mass air flow sensor(Most common problem on Sentra's)
Spend a 100 buck and have a nissan dealer check it out for you as they would have the tools to check the sensors correctly
SOURCE: car sometimes starts up no problem , then other
the mechanic should check the power system or when you start it start in 2x start . the ignition switch the fuses , the coil, the rotor coil and the starter solenoid .the distributor assembly can only be check if it back fires since .But still check the spark plug cable wires and the spark plug. look for some worn out or destroyed wires then replace then as well as the electrical parts.And also the loose connection of wires It can be one of the problem.
SOURCE: 2006 NISSAN SENTRA 1.8 SE
There was a recall on the Crank Angle Sensor and another recall in which the engine would consume too much oil due to faulty piston rings
SOURCE: Car won't start. Transmission was just replaced.
safty netural switch may be unpluged or bad will not start
SOURCE: transmission
Nissan Sentra's were notorious for this in the early to mid 90's. I'll paste my walk-through of fixing the problem for you. Pay particular attention when replacing the governor gear, as it's plastic from the factory. I would strongly suggest getting the metal one that was produced after-market. The plastic gears chip and break within 100,000 miles, whereas the metal ones have unanimously been known to out-last the car. If you care to do the work yourself, read on:
Your
governor gear is either stripped or destroyed. It's extremely easy as
far as labor, beginner skill level (if you have a knowledgeable person
or book/article to reference) but finding the part is a headache. Get
the part before you do anything else. It's a small plastic gear (stock)
and I've heard that there's a brass one available, but haven't found it
yet. From the dealership,
the gear alone is about $40. The governor assembly is about $200.
There's 99% chance you only need the gear. I'll give you a basic
walk-through of how to check, but I would strongly advise not to proceed
until you have at least the gear in-hand. Also, make sure the gear is
correct.
**IMPERATIVE**
The 4-speed transmission
has a 16 spline gear that is about an inch and a half long, whereas the
3-speed transmission has a 19 spline gear that is about 2.5 inches
long. They are NOT interchangeable.
First, get everything out of the way. Disconnect and remove your battery.
There is a small fusebox bolted to the battery tray. Remove the two
nuts holding this on, and separate it from the battery tray, letting it
hang behind the radiator. Remove the battery tray. The air box is going
to have to come out as well, so you have room to see and work. Easiest
way to do this is to remove all of the hoses as far from the airbox as
possible, leaving them attached to the airbox so it all comes out as one
piece. There's a small vacuum line just out-of-sight, that plugs into
the silencer, feel around on the firewall side, and simply unplug it.
Once all of this is safely out of the way, it's time to get down to
business.
In your newly-cleared work area, on the top of the
transmission closer to the firewall than to you, you'll see what looks
like either a black plastic, or silver (but dirty) metal, 'cap'. There
is a snap-ring set just inside the ridge around the top of this, with a
seal ring under it. Pry this snap-ring out carefully, unless you intend
to replace it. With that out of the way, the seal ring will come right
up. Using a large vice grip, or a large pair of water pump pliers,
grip the cap and work it out. There's an o-ring around the bottom of
this, so it make take a little back-and-forth to get it all the way out.
Once you have gotten that off, there is what looks like a complex metal
block underneath. This is your governor assembly, and it's actually
about 10 inches long. To reiterate, this entire assembly should be
around $200 from a dealership. You should be able to pull this outwith
minimal effort, and the bottom is hardened plastic, so be as gentle as
possible. Once removed, inspect the plastic gear on the bottom. If it's
chewed up but otherwise intact, replace it and you're okay. If it's
shattered and/or obviously missing pieces (which has been the case in
several of the rebuilds I've done), you'll have to drain at least a
quart of fluid to see into the bottom of the hole where the governor
sits, and make sure there are no pieces floating around in there. I had
to use a dentist's
pick to get the pieces out. If you are going to replace the entire
governor assembly, remove the old one and skip the next paragraph.
If you want to save a nice chunk of money, and just replace the gear:
Put
the governor in a vice, and as gently as possible, hammer the holding
pin out of the gear and governor shaft. Once removed, the old gear will
slide right off. Slide the new gear on, put the pin in place, and you're
good to go.
Slide the new (or newly rebuilt) governor gear
assembly back into the transmission, making sure it seats flush. Replace
the cap you removed, the seal ring,
then the snap-ring. Put the airbox back in, ensuring all of the hoses
and clamps are back in place - especially that pesky one hidden behind
the silencer box. Replace your battery tray, the fusebox thereto
attached, and your battery and hold-down. Replace any transmission fluid
you had to drain, start the car
and let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm up the fluid. With your foot on
the brake, manually shift it through all the gears to ensure the fluid
gets into all of those little spaces. Put it back in park, turn the car
off, check the fluid again, and add as needed.
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