Automatic transmission does not always downshift before a stop.

SOURCE: transmission downshifts erroneously

Sounds like the computer that controls the transmission.....but don't just go buy one because there is a diagnostic route.I just worked on two of those earlier this year,and the computer can drive you crazy.92 is pre OBD 2 or OBD anything,codes are pulled from the car manually.Passenger side interior,front kick panel.Remove the kick panel,locate BLUE colored TWO WIRE connector.It isnt connected to anything.Take a paper clip or wire,bend in a U,insert into connector.Turn the ignition switch on,engine off.This throws the trans computer into self diagnostic mode.Count the number of times...on the dash...the "S" light flashes.This is the code number.Now you look up the code number on a code chart.If there are NO CODES,the "S" light just comes on for 2 seconds when you turn the ignition on,then the "S" light goes back out.Thats normal operation,no codes.If no codes,you are back to square one.Welcome to code diagnostics.Remove paper clip.IF,there are any codes,they must be identified on a code chart,as a diagnostic trouble code for say...the shift solenoids,is a definite solution to this problem.Honda trans's are problematic on solenoids,shift and line pressure.So,check for codes,diagnose any codes and repair them.If no codes,or codes have been repaired,and the same symptom still persists,then it's time to look at the computer,or PCM.The PCM is located either under the carpet on the passenger side front,near the firewall,or under one of the front seats.Remove the PCM,take to a clean bench,and dissasemble.Remove outer cover and look,don't touch,look for a capacitor that may have exploded.I had very similar problems on one....the gear selector indicator would indicate Park and Overdrive....AT THE SAME TIME,when actually in Overdrive,and the car would failsafe to 3rd gear.It was a bad PCM,but did not see an exploded capacitor inside that one.Good Luck...Hondas,gotta love em.

SOURCE: 1998 Honda CRV Clutch Problem

hello with your clutch problem if its a hydraulic clutch i cant help you but if its a cable clutch either your cable has snapped or you might of snapped your clutch fork. common problem in holdens also

SOURCE: automatic transmission

Fluid can leak out of the driveshaft seals, the input shaft seal, the transmission pan gasket, the torque converter or the ATF cooler and line connections. If the fluid level gets low, the transmission may be slow to engage when it is shifted into drive. Gear shifts may be sloppy or delayed, or the transmission may slip between shifts. If the fluid level is really low, the transmission may cause the vehicle to not go at all.fluid level should be checked when the fluid is hot with the engine idling, the parking brake set and the transmission in Park. If fluid is needed, add only enough ATF to bring the level up to the full mark. Do not overfill because doing so can cause the fluid to become aerated, which may affect transmission operation. If the dipstick reads low, the transmission is probably leaking. So look underneath to see where the fluid is going. If there are no visible leaks, check the radiator for ATF in the coolant. The ATF cooler inside the radiator may be leaking and cross-contaminating the fluids.
You should also check the condition of the fluid. Some discoloration and darkening is normal as the fluid ages, but if the ATF is brown or has a burnt smell, it is badly oxidized and needs to be changed. Varnish on the dipstick is another indication of worn out fluid.
You can also do a "blotter test" to check for worn fluid. Place a few drops of ATF on a paper towel and wait 30 seconds. If the spot is widely dispersed and red or light brown in color, the fluid is in satisfactory condition. But if the spot does not spread out and is dark in color, the ATF is oxidized and should be changed.
Many transmission experts say most transmission problems can be prevented by changing the ATF and filter regularly for preventive maintenance. How often depends on how the vehicle is driven. For some vehicles, this might be every 30,000 miles or two years.
The harder the transmission works, the hotter the fluid runs. The life of the fluid drops quickly once its temperature gets up above about 200 degres F. Installing an aftermarket auxiliary ATF cooler that is parallel to the OEM ATF cooler is recommended to keep fluid temperatures down on vehicles that are used for towing or are driven hard.
ATF also becomes contaminated with normal wear particles from the clutch plates, bushings and gears. The filter will trap most of this debris before it can cause problems. But many older Asian transmissions only have a plastic or metal screen that does little to protect the transmission against internal contaminants and nothing to keep the fluid clean. On these vehicles, changing the fluid is the only way to get rid of these contaminants.
When adding or replacing ATF, use the type specified by the vehicle manufacturer. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Mercedes and others all have their own specs for ATF. There is no such thing as a "universal" ATF that works in all transmissions. Some fluids meet a variety of specifications, but cannot meet them all because of the different friction additives that are required.
Ford has three automatic transmission fluid specifications: Type F (a non-friction modified formula for most 1964-81 transmissions), Mercon (a friction modified ATF similar to Dexron II for 1988-97 transmissions), and Mercon V (Fords latest friction-modified formula, introduced in 1997).

SOURCE: 92 Accord Automatic shifting

Has anyone change the transmission fluid and used anything other than Honda ATF-Z1. If so, have the fluid/filter changed in this car and use only Honda Fluid. This is the only fluid that you can use in a Honda. Even if you have used the correct fluid an fluid/filter change may help. If that is not the case then I suggest you seek out a trusted professional.

SOURCE: 97 Honda Civic Manual Transmission Issue(s)

when i take off in first and second i hear a small whinning