While driving across town in 100 degree weather, went to leave at a stoplight and the clutch would not engage. Then gradually it started to move but was slipping badly. Limped it about 1/2 mile up the road to another stop light where it seemed to be working better, and managed to drive it home with minimal slipping. This truck has a hydraulic clutch pedal. Could the clutch master cylider malfunction and not release the clutch completely? The truck seems to be operating fine now and I did add about 1 oz of fluid to the clutch resevoir.
If your losing fluid the slave cylinder is probably failing or the clutch master cylinder is got bad seals either way one must be replaced the slave cylinder is in the bellhousing and tranny must be dropped
SOURCE: No 4 wheel drive, no dash lights, no tail lights!
check your relays first (after the fuses) and the vacuum lines if you have those for the 4 wheel drive. Hope that helps
SOURCE: hydraulic clutch 1995 chevy 1500 truck
I know you dont want to hear this but it sounds like the clutch plate is in backwards.
SOURCE: I have a chevy venture transmission slip
You can try a fluid and filter change and see if it helps. But from your description, it sounds like it's
time for a rebuilt(or used)transmission. Sorry to be
the bearer of bad news. Good luck.
SOURCE: I have a 1997 chevy 1500. The Trans (4l60e) is bad i think
Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Trans is on its way out. R&R
Good luck and start with checking your transmission fluid level. Thank you for using Fixya
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