Question about 1992 Chevrolet K1500

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92 chevy z71 4wd pickup clutch slipping

While driving across town in 100 degree weather, went to leave at a stoplight and the clutch would not engage. then gradually it started to move but was slipping badly. Limped it about 1/2 mile up the road to another stop light and managed to drive it home with minimal slipping. This has a hydraulic clutct peadel. could the clutch master cylider malfunction and not release the clutch completely? The truck seems to be operating fine now and I did add about 1 oz of fluid to the clutch.

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Being a single piston master i do not see how it could be holding pressure on the the slave cylinder. if your clutch petal is releasing high you need a new clutch and pressure plate

Posted on May 29, 2017

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Anonymous

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: 1993 Chevy 1500 pickup 4-wheel drive

I replaced the malfunctioning “thermal actuator” with the “Warn” Vacuum actuator setup, it’s been working great for about 7 years now, simple install, if I remember correctly, it was about $150.
That’s what engages the front diff into 4wd.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 97 Chevy Lumina Completly Stops while driving

i need location of where this tcc solenoid is located on 97 chev. lumina so i can change part

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

wilsodfarm

Donnie Wilson

  • 986 Answers

SOURCE: hydraulic clutch 1995 chevy 1500 truck

I know you dont want to hear this but it sounds like the clutch plate is in backwards.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

John Donahue

  • 593 Answers

SOURCE: I have a chevy venture transmission slip

You can try a fluid and filter change and see if it helps. But from your description, it sounds like it's
time for a rebuilt(or used)transmission. Sorry to be
the bearer of bad news. Good luck.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1997 chevy 1500. The Trans (4l60e) is bad i think

Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Trans is on its way out. R&R
Good luck and start with checking your transmission fluid level. Thank you for using Fixya

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

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it is very possible that the clutch master cylinder has malfunctioned
what happens in your case is that there is a compensating port in the cylinder that becomes blocked and when the clutch is released the fluid is pushed back by the pressure plate fingers
it has no where to go so so the plate is held in a partial or fully disengaged position causing it to slip
it would be good workshop practice to replace both the slave and master cylinder with new units then bleed the air out
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