Question about 2000 Buick LeSabre
I cannot tell you what is wrong without diagnosing the problem. However, I can do this:
Let me give you a little "Automotive Technology 101". The first thing you need to do is to check what is missing when the engine dies. A gasoline powered, internal combustion piston engine needs 4 basic things to make it run:
1. Volumetric Efficiency (built into the design of the engine)
2. Air-Fuel Ratio
Running out and replacing parts without first determining which of these things are missing from the equation is usually a waste of time and money.....your post bears witness to this statement.
The engine will not run at all if there is a serious problem with Volumetric Efficiency, and it takes an engineer to design and fix that anyway. It is not likely to be a compression problem if it starts and runs ok before it dies. So that leaves us with spark and air-fuel ratio.
So the next question is whether it is fuel or spark or BOTH at the same time? There are several things that can possibly affect each of these. Several possibilities can be either verified or eliminated by answering this simple question.
It is important to realize that BOTH of these things (spark and fuel) are controlled by your onboard engine control computer. To attempt to diagnose these things while ignoring the computer that controls them is usually a real EXPENSIVE way to perform this task.
With all that said,
What you need to do is check your fuel system and your ignition system when the engine dies. If the engine does not start right back up after stalling, it makes things a little easier because some "manual" testing can be used to verify a few things.
Check to see if there is spark at the spark plugs. Check to see if there is (A) fuel pressure at the fuel rails and (B) injector pulse at the injectors. This will tell you if it is a fuel "delivery" problem (fuel pump, relay, fuel filter, etc.) or a fuel "injection" problem (computer inputs, injectors, injector circuits, etc.) or if the ignition system is malfunctioning (coils, wires, computer, electrical connectors, security system, etc.).
From the sysmptoms you are describing, it sounds to me like if you were to actually check these things like they SHOULD be checked, you will most likely find that the fuel pressure is within specifications and that you have no injector pulse or spark at the spark plugs.
If this is what you find, then the "most likely" cause of your problem would be a failed crankshaft position sensor, because this will affect BOTH the spark and the injector pulse at the same time.
Proper diagnosis recommended.
Posted on May 07, 2012
My 85 Mazda b2000 had the same thing happen, it would only keep running when the choke was engaged, it would die as soon as it warmed up. I replaced the gas, which was in bad shape since the car was sitting so long on an empty tank "easy since they have a plug on the bottom of the tank" and replaced the fuel filter and it runs like a top.
Posted on Nov 29, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
unplug the cam sensor behind the water pump pulley; see if it starts; if it does, shut off engine; replace both cam and crank sensors because crank sensors go out in these engines
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
SOURCE: 1992 buick lesabre starts fine.
You check the coils with a ohm meter. They should 6-8 thousand ohms at the spark plug connections. One lead to one spark plug connection and the other lead to the other . It's not likely a coil for stalling. If coil , Your car can still run on four cylinders. It can be a ignition module. It fails when it gets extremely hot. The module is located under the coils.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
SOURCE: will start then dies
On the regals they have a ceramic resistor on the passanger side under the fender. It heats up and over time it tends to brake and the wire inside tends to rust away. The fuel pumps run in 2 different speeds. Had the same problem. Dealer only part yet the car would run and you would think it was the fuel pump. Turn the key it kicks on then start and dies out. Ceramic on the pass side would need replaced. It is white about 2-3 inches long or so held on with 2 bolts i do believe. Ill find a bulliten i found online to help me diagnos the problem. :) hopefully this helps someone out instead of spendin $$$ that ya cant afford with the recession eh?
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
Your vehicle's fuel pump relay is located on the relay center, behind the glove box, 2nd column of relays, 2nd one from the top.
Posted on May 23, 2009
I'm not Roger but can tell you this....if you have a bad crankshaft position sensor or a corrupt ECM....your car will do that.....last things could be the timing belt.
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
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