you are going to have to trace down wires for disconnect,bad ground, or short starting from compressoryou are going to have to trace down wires for disconnect,bad ground, or short starting from compressor
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I would bypass the low cycling switch and service the ac first,or use direct power and ground to inspect the clutch,just make sure your compressor is not locked up first.
ac compressors are protected by high pressure and low pressure switches in the system. If the ac compressor will not engage it may be --no gas--too much gas ---blockage in the system--- no cooling fan for the condensor-- burnt out clutch behind the pulley
have an accredited ac specialist check it out.
the AC compressor has a "shutdown switch" when not enough refrigerant is in the system run a wire from the
run a wire from the + battery cable to the compressor pulley switch with the engine running, ac on if the compressor clucth engages (turns) you have low refrigerant charge
Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.
Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.
If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.
The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.
The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon and fill to system capacity.
The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.
The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..
Remember the flow for the a/c system is : 1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator. 2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve) 3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator. 4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.
Well, for one with the truck idling, the RPMs should increase every time that the clutch on the compressor engages. You should be able to see it engage and disengage and the RPMs will change accordingly. If this isn't happening then you need to determine why. Have the A/C blower on low when doing this.
No inline filter, you may need to recharge this system if the compressor is cycling on and off with no cold air. check the lines for leaks. check the clutch on the compressor as well for its operational value. it should engage with a click during the cycle.
THE A.C COMPRESSOR BELT ALSO RUNS THE ALTERNATOR.AS OF YET THERE IS NO PULLEY U CAN INSTALL TO BYPASS THE A.C COMPRESSOR.SO YES YOUR A/C COMPRESSOR MUST TURN IN ORDER FOR THE ALTERNATOR BELT TO TURN.CALL AND A COUPLE OF ESTIMATES
all relays checked out.
run power directly to compressor to see if unit is bad
runs good when wired direct
you are going to have to trace down wires for disconnect,bad ground, or short starting from compressor
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