My 1987 300zx turbo has no spark replaced the coil and still no spark It was running fine intell the wiring harness got burned a fuse went out put a new one in and the harness is gud but now I have no spark
Hi, I had the same problem, no spark. I check coil it was good, check the injectors for pulse they are fine, I checked the four wire harnes conected to the distributor are fine, I check resistance at the power transistor in top of the air filter assembly and it was wrong, I just replaced the power transistor and the car is running good again.
I hope this help you.
Thanks
Most aftermarket radios have an inline glass fuse installed on the power leads usually in a white or black holder. I would probably check these first then check to supply from the vehicle itself.
Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF
before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness
connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at
the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the
cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When
the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the
lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with
the following system checks.
Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by
touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the
terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter
to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should
be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and
all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair
as necessary
Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF.
Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an
ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative
coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK;
replace it if the reading is far from this range.
If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Using
an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the
pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance
by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are
indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be
replaced.
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 modelsFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
Remove the IC unit.
Measure
the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be
approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit
is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is
bad and must be replaced.
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i would pull that cylinders spark plug also before plugging harness into another coil check voltage at harness end you may have another issue with wiring
You need to ck for spark . Pull one spark plug wire off at the spark plug end . insert a new spark plug into the wire and set the spark plug on the valve cover watch the new plug while some one try's to start the engine and see if their is spark if their is you have a fuel deliverery problem or a possible timing problem ,the alternator should not make it not start.
Be careful putting 12 volts to the injector harness,it will burn the e c m out.The module in the distributor,and the pickup coil work together to pulse the injector and energize the coil.The ignition module is most likely the problem,but the pickup coil in the distributor,would be my second choice in the two.See if it has spark,or spray a little bit of starting fluid in the intake,not much,if it fires,and tries to run,replace the module,and the pickup coil.If it has no spark,the module replacement will be all that is needed.
Help,
I have a 92 F-150 XLT with a 5.0. The ignition switch block burned up so I replaced it. Now it will not get spark when I crank it over, but when I crank it and let off of the key, I get one spark jump from the coil; to the distributer. (I have a spark tester I placed on the cap to the wire) I have replaced the coil and the ignition module that is on the fender attached to the brain, I have replaced the ignition cylinder and key (It was acting up) and I took the dash apart to see the wire harness to ensure there was no burnt wires. (The wire connection to the ignition block is not damaged from when the switch burned.
Does anyone know if there is a part that tends to go bad when the ignition block burns up??
Help, Thanks, Todd
Hi check all the fuse. fi the fuse are ok . remove the coil pack and reverce if the cly missifire change replace the coil if not chage replace the electronic comtrol module ok.
Is the knock sensor, mass air flow sensor and all other necessary sensors plugged in? Also there is a hanger bracket on the front of the engine that shares the front two bolts of the intake manifold and there's about 3-4 ground wire terminals that attach to this bracket and the wires come off of the fuel injector wiring harness. I would check these things and any other obvious electrical connections.
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models
Fig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
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