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My van will "intermittently" quit running. The problem is not reproducible. In most cases, it will die when you're making a turn, or when you start the car (not necessarily when it's cold. It can be after it's driven for long time), and go few feet and it will quit. I put the car in "neutral", and wait for 3-4 seconds, and start, and it will run again, and may not die for several days !! It has 125,000 miles. I am the original owner. The "check engine" light isn't on. There was one code recently, it said, "Knock sensor". But my mechanic cleared it, and after 2 hours, the car stalled. The battery is 5 years old. It has some acid leak, but, it is charging fine.
It may be the camshaft sensor in the distributor. Sometimes the optical sesor can be cleaned. Most times, need new distributor or reman from ebay.
do not replace the knock sensor, it is never bad. ANd, it is in the middle of the engine. $1000 repair for nothing.
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Check your air inlet hose(large black rubber hose from air filter to engine)for any cracks, especially between ribs. When there are cracks,when you accelerate it flexes open and creates a giant vacuum leak causing your van to die. Other things to check would be coolant temp sensor,not switch, and have the vehicle scanned if possible.
I am not 100% sure of this fix for all Villagers, but, I had for sometime a sometimes intermittant electrical problem it would come and go with no particular method to its madness, it effected various components in the Van, one day it might be my wipers door locks, or windows etc. even the starting system, then one day I got what looked like a complete disconnect from the electrical systems, nothing worked , no lights, no horn, no clicking relays, no dash lights, no power to the fuses, no ignition switch nada, as it turns out there in a part of the Positive post that has a Red protective cap over the post, with wires coming out of it, well it appears that it can develope a disconnect to a point where no current passes through it and it is quite invisable to the naked eye, I took the Red cover apart conected it directly to the bolt on the POSitive post and everything started working and knock on wood its been two weeks without a problem, just thought I would toss that out there.
that engine is built by nissan believe it or not. look on the net for your van or a nissan maxama. I just googled it and found lots of diagrams for that van(95 mercury villiger 3.0 timing belt diagram. I would not only replace the belt, I would replace it using a timing belt replacement kit.If your going to keep the van.
Unfortunately Ford/Mercury did not issue any recall about the spare tire cable. Here all recalls concerning your van model: 1996 Mercury Villager Recalls.
A good solution would be replacing the spare tire nut and cable. A solution is getting an aftermarket replacement like the one below. That should be safe enough to allow you putting the spare cable back in place under the van without safety concerns. Click on the picture below to open the page.
Note: If the problem is not the spare tire nut and cable but the rod attached to the chassis you will need to carry a welding job to fix a new rod to the chassis. In that case the repair must be done at the garage. If the problem is nut and cable I suggest buying the part shown above or an equivalent.
it's rare but you may have a blown head gasket. Check for a coolant leak in the small hoses under the upper intake, chek the hose from the radiator to the plastic reservoir.
You have a bad cam sesnor in the distributor- for certain. Rich Porter on ebay has the best reman for $200. Guaranteed fix. 99 was famous for this, runs cold for 15 mintues then acts up and quits, tach usually jumps around too.
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