Corolla starter will crank after 6 tries

ever see the car run perfect ever before) (history)
WHAT DOES TURN OVER MEAN?
THE STARTER SPINS
THE CRANK SHAFT SPINS
IF LUCKY BOTH DO.
THE WORD TO USE IS CRANKS.
WILL NOT CRANK
STARTER IS SILENT OR ONLY CLICKS OR CHATTERS.
MY JEEP PUSH STARTS, SEE?
1/2 THE POSTERS CALLS TURNS OVER FOR RUNNING, use the word cranking, for clarity.

SO the STARTER IS DEAD.
THIS IS SUPER COMMON AND ANSWERED HERE 1000'S OF Times and google shows 3 million hits.

lets do this 1 more time 1001th.
ALL FUSE ARE GOOD. (FOR ANY ELECTRIC FAIL)
there are 5 causes.( we now know stater was solenoid
1: the battery is bad. use jumper cables to prove that
or charge it first then load test it . lugs tight and clean.
SO bat. is good because step 5 passes, starter jumped.
2:key switch bad or IMMO security fails and some cars 10% cut starter dead with the fuel.
3: PRNDL switch bad (A/t box?)_ try cranking in Neutral now. fails. see next answer.
4: starter relay bad.
5: starter bad. no it works solenoid direct jump test.
6: any wires above serial path bad, one is.

IMMO is (never skip looking at dash lamp first)
SECURILOCK
PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
page 86 in your lost users guide but free to find googled. every time.

If the theft indicator stays on for
an extended period of time or flashes rapidly, have the system
serviced by your dealer! (or some ASE pro shops)


86 free to see, (I do not know merc, logic on immo deeply) yes some IMMO sure do cut starter.and fuel

https://www.manualowl.com/am/Mercury/2005-Mariner/Manual/4428?page=77#manual

more
you can make(DIY) 8 keys for this car.(add 6)
but 2 must still be working first, car came with 2.
page 87 words.

ONLY CAN BE 6 CAUSES. NO CRANK. YES FUSE LINKS BLOW WHEN ALTERNATOR SWAPS DONE WRONG ,NOT PULLING NEG LUG OF BATTERY STEP1.
6 CAUSES NO CRANK NOT 50 CAUSES OF DEAD ENGINE IS VASTLY MORE EASY TO FIX USING A VOLTMETER.
E3500 VAN,99 , NO VIN OR ENGINE TOLD.
NO DIESEL CORRECT?

5 ENGINES, AND ALL 5 ARE NOT WIRED THE SAME.
4.3,5.0,5.7,6.5 AND 7.3
WILL TOSS DICE AND LAND ON 4.3L
FUSIBLE LINK RUST5 IS FOR ALT
FUSIBLE LINK BLACK 8 IS FOR WHOLE CAR.
BLACK 8 RUNS WHOLE HUGE CENTER FUSE BOX
WITH LOTS OF HUGE 50AMP+ FUSE, NONE BE BLOWN IS FIRST. ALL FUSES HERE ARE HOT ALL THE TIME ARE THEY?>
9 TO 11 HUGE FUSES, 2 ARE FOR UPFITTER PROVISIONS.
FUSE IGN-A AND IGN-B FUSE NOT BLOWN 40 & 50AMP
THEN IP BOX FUSE, 8 MARKED CRANK. 10AMP.
OUTPUT IS PPL PURPLE WIRE TO PRNDL SWITCH
IF IN PARK AND DO TRY CRANKING IN NEUTRAL
WE GET 12VDC TO THE STARTER SOLENOIDS.

TEST 2, DO ALL THINGS ELECRTIC WORK SEEMS THE CLUSTER DOES, HEAD LAMPS AND BLOWER ON HIGH?
BATTERY AT 12.6VDC RESTED?

THE STARTER IS EASY TO HOT WIRE, KEYS IN POCKET PARK
I FAILS, BATTERY /STARTER OR THE 2 BATTERY HUGE CABLES ARE BAD. 4 ENDS LOOSE OR RUSTY?

THE CRANK FUSE, MUST GO HOT CRANKED OR FUSES ARE BLOWN OR THIS PATH TO THE BATTERY FAILS.


I'D START HERE, IT'S IN THE MIDDLE OF PATH (WISE)
AND FUSE IS VOLTAGE TESTED. ONLY CRANKING.
IF DEAD MOVE TO KEY SWITCH OR BACK FUSED ABOVE.

sounds like a battery, starter or relay. Start by checking those for proper voltage

i get lost at once........
M/T or A/T what tranny ?
ok this post is about cranking speed.
it can only be a few things.
1: weak battery. try a spare, or jump it?
2: bad starter or solenoid.
3: bad starter cables.
4: bad starter key line. (small wire) and things upstream.
5:engine full of water in the cylnders. (hyrdalocked)
6: engine spark timing way off, and motor is trying to start backwards (distributor way off or just loose at base.
time it.

id need to hear this start, (or touch car) to answer correctly
as you might not know fixing cars is a hands on deal.

What we need to know is if you can here the starter cranking the engine over? If the answer is no than check for power on the smaller wire at the starter. There should be power anytime the key is in the crank position. If there is power replace the starter. If the answer is yes than you will need to check for fuel pressure and spark to determine which is not letting the engine start. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Not all replacement parts are good. I would guess that the new ignition switch is bad. Its also possible that the wiring harness is loose where its connected to the ignition switch. You could try jiggling the wires.

Sounds like starter isn't disengaging, get that checked pronto, you could be damaging the flywheel (very expensive). Could be any appliance also; a/c compressor, idler pully, alternator, etc. Don't wait.

Sounds like fuel delivery, Maybe fuel pump.

There are severat things that might cause this problem. First thing I would check is if maybe that you knocked the starter solenoid wire loose. This would be the smaller of the two wires going to the starter. The second thisn that I would check is the starter it's self. If you have gotten water in the starter you could have coroded the brushes that are in the starter motor, or coroded the contacts in the starter motor solenoid. The third and least likely possiabality is that the starter is loose and the electricity can't complete its path because of corosion and bad connection to ground.

Before you crank try and cut key on for 5-10 seconds then off and back on then crank if cranks up then you have a fuel problem. this will allow pump to run and pump fuel up. could be a bad check valve in pump causing fuel to drain back