Radio windows and sun roof fuse keeps blowing

SOURCE: Blowing Fuse

There are a few possibilities here. First, you may have high starting amps on the compressor. You mentioned the run capacitor being changed. I'm not sure if you have a start capacitor, but that should also be checked. If you don't have a start capacitor, I would recommend having a hard start kit installed in the unit. It's basically a start capacitor with an internal relay to take it out of the circuit when the compressor is running, and wires up in parallel to the run capacitor. Also, check all of your line voltage wiring. Make sure all the wiring connections are tight (wire nuts, screw terminals, etc.), and that there's no issue with wiring insulation rubbing off from vibration, etc. Finally, check the points on the compressor contactor. If the contacts are black and pitting, it causes arcing, which means excessive amp draw through the contactor.

SOURCE: keep blowing fuse for fuel pump

If it takes more than a couple of hours to blow the fuse its most likely the fuel pump. If it blows instantly you could have a grounded out feed wire (+) wire or a bad relay. Look in the haynes manual to get the location of the relay.

SOURCE: # 15 fuse keeps blowing on a Ford f150 2003 model

try a #20 amp fuse

SOURCE: 1996 ford explorer windows, locks and seat fuse keeps blowing

Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.

If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.

Good Luck.

SOURCE: I have a 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Fuse 15 keeps

I had the same problem on my 2001 ford 150 supercrew. My cruise control went out first, then a couple months later I could not put my truck in gear and the windows wouldn't work. Then the #15 fuse (5 amp) kept blowing. One day when I went to work the truck caught fire. The problem was the speed control module. It was under a recall. I took it to ford and since I did not take it to them for the recall they only covered the parts that was initially in the recall. I had to buy the other parts.