What is a total toe adjustment sleeve on a 2006 f 250

Indeed the rear isn't adjustable by itsself. There are however ways to adjust, either using shims or by pressing the rear axle.

Renault apparently only concern themselves with total toe-in (I've seen the documents), meaning that if total toe-in on the rear axle is within specs, even if one wheel points straight and the other has toe-in, you 're out of luck as far as warranty is concerned. Its 'normal'.

Thankfully the car does not pull, it goes completely straight on a straight road. I'm just worried about tyre wear and, well, I'm kind of a nutter about wanting everything on the car's geo to be perfect (which thankfully is, except rear toe-in).

I saw a post in here with a Renaultsport parts list that included rear toe & camber shims. However the part number doesn't come up when searching Renault's part database. Anyone know how to get them?

Toe adjustment is made with the adjusting sleeve #8 located on both sides.

this was copied off of the following link. should be same torque requirments-
this is off a 2004 manual,which should be real close if not exact

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel> and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp> bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

got it from here -

Tie rod end torque spec DodgeTalk Dodge Car Forums Dodge Truck Forums and...

On these LH body cars, camber is not adjustable. Neither is caster. Those angles are preset by the suspension geometry. However, specifications for them ARE published. Generally, if either of those two parameters are out of spec, then it's likely something is worn or damaged and needs to be replaced.

The only adjustable parameters are to the front and rear toe but specified as "Total Toe" - see note below.
The alignment specs are as follows ...

ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS AT VEHICLE CURB HEIGHT
A. FRONT WHEELS

1. CAMBER
   Acceptable -0.6° to +0.6°
   Preferred +0.0°
   Side to Side Differential
   Acceptable 0.7° or less
   Preferred 0.0°
2. TOTAL TOE - Specified in degrees. See Note Below
   Acceptable 0.4° in -to- 0.0° out
   Preferred 0.2° in
3. CASTER* (reference angle)
   Acceptable +2.0° -to- +4.0°
   Preferred +3.0°
   *Side to Side Caster Difference not to exceed
   Acceptable 1.0° or less
   Preferred 0.0°

B. REAR WHEELS

1. CAMBER
   Acceptable -0.6° -to- +0.4°
   Preferred +0.1°
2. TOTAL TOE** - Specified in degrees. See Note Below.
   Acceptable 0.2° out -to- 0.4° in
   Preferred -0.1° in
   **TOE OUT when backed onto alignment rack is TOE IN when driving.
3. THRUST ANGLE
   Acceptable -0.15° -to- +0.15°

Note: "Total Toe" is the arithmetic sum of the left and right Toe settings. Positive is Toe-in. Negative is Toe-out. Total Toe must be equally split between left and right wheels. Left and Right Toe must be equal to within 0.02° (2 one hundredths of a degree).

Courtesy RJK & Concorde Shop Manual

If the car is stock then I would run the caster at .05 higher on the right than the left to adjust for the crown of the road. the front alignment looks good other than I am not sure which one is camber and which one is caster. To adjust the rear camber on these cars you have to have a camber kit. From the angle I am seeing you don't have a camber kit. Also the only way to adjust caster on the civic is to shift the sub frame.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

Hello Snsimpson



Here are all the specs for the Windstar.


FRONT ALIGNMENT (CURB HEIGHT WITH 1/2 TANK OF FUEL)
Camber

Nominal -0.25°
Minimum -0.75°
Maximum +0.25°
Split 0.0°±0.5° Caster
Right

Nominal +3.80°
Minimum +3.05°
Maximum +4.55°
Split -0.5°±0.5° Left

Nominal +3.30°
Minimum +2.55°
Maximum +4.05°
Split -0.5°±0.5° Total Toe [1]

Nominal -0.10°
Minimum -0.40°
Maximum +0.20° Clear Vision [2]

Nominal -0.2°
Minimum -2.8°
Maximum 3.2° REAR ALIGNMENT (CURB HEIGHT WITH 1/2 TANK OF FUEL)
Camber

Nominal 0.0°
Minimum -0.3°
Maximum +0.3° Total Toe [1]

Nominal -0.06°
Minimum -0.40°
Maximum +0.28° [1] Positive value specifications for toe-in, negative value specification for toe is toe-out. [2] Negative value specification for clear vision is counterclockwise.

caster is adjusted at the rear of the lower control arms. Camber is fixed and cannot be adjusted by normal means (though special off-set ball joints are available to do that) Toe in is adjusted by turning the sleeves in or out on the tie rod ends. None of this should be done at home though crude adjustments can be made in order to get the front end reasonably straight. Adjustments are made on an alignment machine that allows precise adjustments to all you mentioned as well as front/rear tracking.

This job is normally done in a shop however it can be done in the driveway as well but not as easily.

I assume you are replacing all four rod ends.

Before removing the tie rod assemblies, First loosen the adjusting nuts on the sleeves that lock the assembly adjustment length. Free up but do not change the adjustment of the sleeves.

The tie rods have a tapered portion that goes into the track rod and the wheel steering knuckle that need to be split apart after removing the retaining nut. This splitting can be done with a puller made for the job or something called a crows foot which is a wedge shaped fork that you hammer on to split the tie rod end taper from the track rod or knuckle. These tools can be rented. The fork is about $12

Once you have the tie rod assemblies off and on the bench, carefully measure the total length of the tie rod assemblies. Screw out the tie rod ends counting the turns and screw in the new ends the same number of turns. You will see that one of the ends is right hand thread and the other a left hand thread. Install the assemblies back on the car, first making sure the tapered area of all parts are very clean. Pull the nuts up to at least 30 foot pounds of torque ( 1 foot wrench pulled to thirty pounds force) or best to the manufacturers specification. Now measure the total length of the tie rods. and make them the same length as those you took off. If there is a difference in the lengths, split the difference in the numbers and make the lengths exactly equal. Lock up the adjusting sleeve nuts. Make sure the tie rods are locked in a position that they are free to swivel their full rotational potential. You are now finished except for alignment. Take the car immediately to an alignment shop and get at least the toe in set. This is what changes when doing this job. You must get this done or you will wipe out your front tires very quickly.

Good Luck

The main cause of steering wheel off-center is toe misalignment or rear axle misalignment. Toe can fall out of adjustment fairly easily as a result of daily driving, so you can imagine the effects of pounding it through 4WD trails on a regular basis.

Toe is designed to preload the steering linkage to remove play in the system. You can visualize toe angle from above; toe-in, or positive toe, is displayed when the leading edges of the tires are closer together than in the rear. Toe-out, or negative toe, is when the leading edges are farther apart. Zero toe is when wheels are pointed straight ahead and are parallel to each other. A slight amount of positive toe is preferred for most vehicles.

Improper toe angle isn't the only reason a steering wheel won't center. This phenomenon can also be caused by the steering linkage not being centered when toe was adjusted in the first place. This can be corrected by recentering the steering wheel and readjusting toe to proper specs. A bent steering arm or linkage component can also cause the steering wheel to be off-center. I've also seen this occur due to loose steering arm bolts. An off-center steering wheel contributes to tire wear because as the wheels are turned off dead center they turn toe out and increase tire scrubbing.

Sometimes an off-center steering wheel is accompanied by a wheel pull to one direction or the other and could be the result of a damaged component somewhere in the vehicle - a bent axlehousing could be throwing off the rear toe setting (rear toe setting is often overlooked). A bent frame or overly worn suspension bushings can also be the cause. If your wheel is off-center and also pulling, it can be as simple as incorrect tire pressure from side to side. Memory steer is another effect that is usually associated with an off-center steering wheel. This is when the steering wheel returns to an off-center position and can result in steering pull or drift after completing a turn. This can be caused by binding in the steering linkage as well as power steering system issues such as leaks or improper hydraulic pressure. Steering linkage bind occurs when proper geometry is not maintained in lifted vehicles.

Many 4x4s don't have factory provisions for adjusting caster and camber and rear toe and camber, but the front toe setting is easily adjusted. Toe is controlled by the steering linkage. By loosening the adjusters on the tie rod and shortening or lengthening the tie rod by turning the ends, toe angle can be adjusted. This should not be a substitute for regular professional wheel alignment jobs and is simply a tip that can be used to put off frequent trips to the alignment shop due to regular trips to the trail.
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Before determining toe angle and/or performing adjustments, it's a good idea to start the engine and turn the steering wheel side to side to relieve pressure in the system. Then, turn the wheels straight and shut off the engine. You should also roll the vehicle back and forth a few times between measurements.

Get someone to hold the other end of the measuring tape and measure the leading toe distance. This is the distance between the leading edges of the front tires. You'll compare the results to the distance between the trailing edges of the tires directly opposite from where you took the first measurement.

The higher number will indicate toe direction: higher number in leading edge indicates toe out; higher number at trailing edge displays toe in. Larger-than-stock tires require more positive toe for best results.

Once the necessary measurements are performed to determine what the current toe setting is, you can loosen the bolts on the tie-rod adjuster sleeve so that the tie-rod ends can be rotated. Don't forgot to tighten the adjusters when you're done as damage or injury could result.

The tie-rod ends thread into the tie rod. The ends can be threaded in or out of the tie rod to make the assembly longer or shorter. Longer creates more toe out; shorter toe in. Don't make huge adjustments all at once. It's best to adjust and measure a few times to achieve appropriate setting.
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I hope this helps you if you were looking to do a toe alignment yourself if you have decent knowledge of component location on a jeep.