Had all new air intake hoses but still rev's on her own when you take foot off pedal.

Cam sensor. I have had the same problem, we have replaced air intake, crank shaft sensor, fuel injectors, coils, spark plugs, converters, and the cam sensor has seemed to help so far

ok i have a 1998 durango with the 5.2L 318 engine. had trouble with a bad cell in my battery. I went out bought an optima red top battery for it 800cca. put it in and had same trouble. No start without putting foot on gas. wouldn't stay running without holding foot on gas. CPU has to relearn it's programming once you unplug it for long periods of time. mine was without power for about 2-3 weeks till i got new battery. Start with this.. first check under air filter make sure a squirrel hasn't made a mess under your air filter and it's clogging the air intake. Then pull off the lid to your injector cover ( the screw down lid coming from the air box ( with air filter in it) to "carb") make sure all your cables move freely. put that all back together and close hood. Start truck with foot slightly on gas pedal to get started. keep it at about 1k to 1500 rpm for about 1-2 minutes. Rev motor to about 2500rpm and let it die out if it will. Get out lock doors with key fob if you have it. if not make sure to lock doors. ( trust me it worked for me) let sit for 5 minutes. come back out and unlock door and relock door 3 times with fob ( if you have it ) or key if you don't have a fob. Then unlock it with the key and enter vehicle. Start truck as before and keep it around 1k to 1500 rpm again for about 30 seconds rev it up and should keep running. Mine did. I think the iac was stuck from sitting and has now since loosened up.
Good luck hope ti works for you.

first thing that comes to mind would be the throttle positioning sensor, or the mass air flow intake sensor on the air intake hose assembly.Symptoms of a mass airflow intake sensor would be very poor acceleration or engine dying when gas pedal is mashed hard. Throttle positioning sensor can give you and irradical idle while sitting still. You might want to have a scan to diagnose the problem.

you might try cleaning the throttle body first. Buy some good Throttle body cleaner and a old tooth brush take off the air intake hose to the engine, have a friend hold the gas pedal to the floor with the engine off and spray and scrub the throttle body good replace the tube crank it up and rev it up a little to clear out the cleaner this may fix your problem

For a 2001 Buick Regal GS 3.8 Liter, Supercharged engine:

First, let engine cool some. Second, locate small drainage hole at the bottom left/drivers side, of the radiator. From the bottom of this small drain hole, go straight back toward rear of radiator, then up about 1 1/2 to 2 inches up. (Have a drain pan or pail handy, to catch the old antifreeze.) You'll find a dark colored drain nut. Use a larger, correct sized socket ratchet wrench & loosen this fitting a turn or so, counter clockwise. Old antifreeze will begin to come out the bottom drain hole. The more you loosen the fitting, the faster the fluid flow out. I wouldn't remove the drain plug completely, or you'll loose control of the draining flow rate.

I just changed my anti-freeze just last week. I also changed the 2 large radiator hoses & smaller 2' overflow hose at the same time, as long as I was doing the job. They had never been changed before. I also used new hose clamps & a small packet of "radiator hose grease", from Autozone.. I drove the car up onto front car ramps to make it easier. I used safety jack stands for extra care. " You-Tube" shows some, "how to videos", that are helpful.

The old hose clamps are difficult to get to. (You'll need a few tools, some time & patience.) To get to the upper clamp, near the right/passenger side of the of the car, near the battery, I removed the outer serpentine belt & tension pully. I then removed the factory installed spring tension clamp, with the help of an adjustable battery pliers. The bottom of this hose wasn't too bad to get to. On the left/drivers side of car, remove black air intake box to access upper clamp. Remove the black metal brace bar, the will allow access to the air intake black box.

I also changed the small overflow 2 foot long hose & 2 clamps, that goes from radiator cap area, back to the overflow white plastic tank, close to passenger firewall. I removed the overflow tank to clean it out as well. I drained the fluid & changed the 3 hoses & clamps. I then placed all removed parts back where they belong, including white plastic overflow tank, tension pully & outer serpentine belt, air intake black box & metal diagonal brace, contacting air intake box. I flushed the system with some Prestone Radiator Cleaner & clean water. Start car & get up to temp., then run for about 10 minutes. Let cool, then drain again. I flushed my car at least 2-3 times after this, until the drain water ran clear.

The best price on a 5 year/150,000 mile anti freeze, came from Wal-Mart. I then mixed about 50/50 with Distilled water, as suggested on the bottle. All went well & no leaks! I took my time and did a thorough job. Good luck!

It's like faulty mass air flow sensor must check first do one thing open engine hood then have look between air cleaner housing and intake air manifold you can see one electric cable fitted on to the air cleaner hose near the air cleaner hosing disconnect the electric cable, turn the cable lock plastic nut anticlockwise and disconnect it, if now better than before it's faulty air flow sensor,

The second cable should be for cruise control. Your problem sounds like either a vacuum leak (air entering the engine unmeasured by the air sensor), or fuel vapor in the fuel rail. A vacuum leak can be determined by spraying starting fluid at the air intake hoses, plenum,and connections while the engine is idyling and noting where the engine accelerates to determine where the vacuum is leaking (unmetered air is entering) from. Tighten or replace gasket,hose,seals etc. Bleed the air on the fuel rail if needed with care.

possible dirty throttle body/idle air control motor, or broken vaccuum hose..if any questions, ask remymix

Make sure that a floor mat or something is not blocking the foot pedal travel. Check at the engine for any reason that limits throttle travel. If all ok, then check the air intake filter and the exhaust system for blockage. Does the engine miss badly when trying to accelerate?

Still sounds fuel related to me. Getting minimal fuel enough to start & or rev, but not maintaining proper pressure required. Try this. Get a can of WD-40 ready, remove air intake hose at throttle body. Start car & when it starts to begin to die, spray some WD-40 into front of throttle body & see if engine continues to run, as long as you keep giving it squirts of 1-2 seconds. If it does, change fuel filter first, but be prepared to do pump too. If you can get a fuel pressure test done on it, that would be even better. Let me know what happens.