Cooling fans do not work. How do you fix?

Are the cooling fans coming on ? What relay switch did you replace ?
The BCM will request low speed cooling fan operation from the PCM under the following conditions:
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Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 103?°C (217?°F).

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When A/C is requested and the ambient temperature is more than 10?°C (50?°F).

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A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1310 kPa (190 psi).

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After the vehicle is shut off if the engine coolant temperature at key-off is more than 117?°C (243?°F) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fans will stay on for approximately 3 minutes.

The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the PCM to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the engine wiring harness junction block. The ground path is provided at G101.
During low speed operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the FAN CONT #1 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the FAN CONT #1 fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. The ground path for the right cooling fan is through the FAN CONT #2 relay and the left cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the PCM supplies the ground path for the FAN CONT #1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3-second delay, the PCM supplies a ground path for the FAN CONT #2 relay and the FAN CONT #3 relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the FAN CONT #2 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the right cooling fan. At the same time the FAN CONT #3 relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the FAN CONT #2 fuse on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have there own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
Is your vehicles check engine light lit ?
Is the

Relays go bad, rarely. But it sounds like you already fixed this problem, now replace the bad relay ($25) and HVAC should work too?

Sounds like the cooling fan is not working. Check the larger fuses in the fuse block under the hood. They should be labeled or diagramed on the inside of the cover. If the fuses look good than swap the fan relay with another relay in the fuse block that looks the same. If the fan starts working and the system that the other relay controls stops working than replace the relay.

If the relay swap does not work than start the car and turn on the A/C. The fan should one on shortly after the compressor engages. If the fan still does not come on than you can check for power and ground to the fan or ohm check the fan itself to see if there is an open circuit. If you have power and ground and the fan is open than the fan will need to be replaced.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

have you bothered to check the thermal fan switch...

Check fuse for cooling fan, check temperature sensor functioning for cooling fan, check relay for the fan (if you have one), check cooling fan motor circuit with resistance check (should read low Ohms, less than 2 Ohms beacause the fan is a powerful motor with 10-20 Amps).
If everything is measured O.K. you should check the wiring. Disconnect the connector at the cooling fan motor, connect a test light to the harness from the car (not to the motor side) and run the engine. Watch the temperature gauge and before you the boiling (overheating) the bulb should lit up. If not you should go back with this test step by step to the relay. The relay can be tested if you can find a same one on your relay board and swap temporary (e.g. swap the AC clutch relay with the cooling fan relay)

If the temp goes up at idle and is fine when your driving at highway speeds than the most likley problem is the cooling fans are not working.

the first thing you can do is check to make sure both of the cooling fan fuses are good. you can also check continuity of the cooling fans with an ohm meter.

The cooling fans are turned on by the low and high speed cooling fan relays. you can try swapping the relays.

If the fans still do not come on than you will need a scan tool to diagnose further since the PCM is what controls the fan relays.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If the fan not turning on when car engine getting hot,then car will notice overheating.Click this link below for troubleshooting:---http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-running-hot.html--------To know how engine cooling system works ,click the link below :----Engine cooling components working?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/engine-cooling-components-working.html

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How does Vehicles Engine cooling system works? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-does-vehicles-engine-cooling-system.html
------------How to Replace Engine cooling Fan:-- http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-replace-engine-cooling-fan-on.html
-----------Replace Fan Relay but still Radiator cooling fans not working? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/replace-fan-relay-but-still-radiator.html
----------DIC says "COOLING FAN FAULT"? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/dic-says-cooling-fan-fault.html
---------Where Is Radiator Fan relay and Fuse Located?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/where-is-radiator-fan-relay-and-fuse.html

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This will help.

Thanks.

Locate and replace the fan relay, you can purchase a electrical component locator which is packaged on cd repair manual at ebay motors $20.00.

it sounds like your computer is faulty the temp sensor run threw the computer
had another car and was chasing my tail till i changed it

This is most likely caused by a bad sensor in the radiator. I have never repaired this on a ford focus so I can't tell you where the sensor is located but if you find the sensor and then make a jumper wire and remove the wire from the sensor and jump the two wires together and turn the car ON (don't start the car) if the fan runs, the sensor is bad and must be replaced.