New distributor no old one

Take note of the position of each plug lead. Mark them with whiteout or tape and a pen if they have no distinguishing marks, or if you are unsure of their relative position.

Using a timing light on cylinder No.1, take note of the present timing marks on the crankshaft pulley with the vehicle up to temperature and running. You also need to take note of the engine revolutions when checking. Using paint, or a scribe, mark where the old distributor is aligned in reference to the engine head. These will serve as an approximate reference when refitting the new one.
Once your notes and marks have been taken, assuming you have no instructions on what the timing and rev range should be normally, then you can procede with the removal of the distributor.

Take off the distributor cap and take note of the position of the rotor arm and which direction it is pointing to. You will have to align the new distributor's rotor arm to the same point before installation.
Many distributors have two locating/locking bolts. You can remove these both, then pull out the distributor. It may require a bit of coaxing as it has a rubber sealing ring on it's shaft which may make it stiff when removing.
As soon as the distributor comes out you will notice that the distributor's drive shaft has two metal lugs which slot into the camshaft. Those metal lugs on many Japanese models are offset, allowing you only one way to fit the new distributor, or in other words, to make it impossible to set the distributor 180 degrees in the wrong direction. This is not always the case however, which is why taking note of the rotor arm earlier was important.
When refitting a new distributor it is often wise to fit it with a new rubber shaft seal. Apply a little rubber grease when refitting, or a smear of engine oil, making it easier to slide in.
Once in, roughly align your distributor at the angle the old one came out at, then secure lightly with one of the retaining bolts. I say lightly, because you will need to turn the distributor later to set the timing.Replace the cap and leads.
Often there is a sticker under the hood/bonnet which tells you what the timing should be at which engine idle rev range.If you are having problems keeping the engine at that specific rev range, then disconnect the idle control valve wiring connector and have someone sit in the vehicle to manage the throttle by the pedal.
Make sure the vehicle is up to temperature once again. The engine may run a little rough at this point, as your timing isn't set yet.

Referring to either your own notes or to the sticker under the hood, use the timing light again and turn the distributor until the crank shaft timing marks align to the correct position, then secure the distributor's locking bolts.


Run the vehicle for a few hours or days, and check the distributor for any signs of an oil leak. An oil leak generally occurs if the shaft seal ('O' ring) is not fitted correctly or if the rubber is damaged/perished.


Good luck!

Is this an automatic or straight drive?
if straight drive will it go into gear not running?

Remove the dist cap, mark the direction the rotor is pointed as close as possible for reference on the new one. Next mark the location of the distributor shaft to the surface of the intake for reference. Remove the bolt and disconnect the wiring, twist the old dist back and forth and pull up, it may be stuck so just work it back and forth. Install new dist using alignment marks made earlier, leave hold down bolt slightly loose and set timing to 10 BDTC with the spout timing shorting bar removed (near ignition control module).

I found this web reference for a 2 year older Dodge that might help:
On 98 dodge dakota with 3 9 V6 how do set up the distributor
This web reference indicates a VAST difference between the V6 and V8...so you could be on the right track with your 180 degree comment:
"The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147° after TDC"
Good luck on your troubleshooting ... and kudos to take on an engine rebuild!

your distributor where you put back on is 180 degrees off fix that and it should start.

I believe what he is telling you is to put a mark on the motoor something to reference where the rotor in the distributor is pointing.
This way when you put the new one in, you can make sure the rotor is pointing the same way and not mess up the timing. Only problem with this, if you are not exact and drop it one tooth offm it will not run right.

no back-firing or anything like that. Double check firing order and how about your plugs/in good shape? How old is the plug wiring? Does the Eclipse have cam senors? If so, I would check them.

Follow your upper radiator hose back to the engine, it will lead to what many refer to as the "goose neck" typically two bolts holding it in place. I expect this part will have several Temp. sensors in it so remove those wires and take care not to damage these when removing. The thermostate lies under this part. When installing be certain to remove all of old gasket and use a new gasket, don't over tighten as your working with aluminum and it can strip easily. You'll of course need to remove and add new radiator fluid. PLease note top of thermostate do not put it in upside down or it will not open and the engine will continually overheat.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

reference you speedometer you will need to take to a tach/speed shop due to department of motor vehicles wood like to get verification. also on late model speedometers the dealer ships either sell you a new one or have your old one repaired.

By a Haynes or Chilton's manual. It will show all the steps. Take pictures as you go in case a step is missing so you can refer to the pictures for guidance.