I have 2003 nissan sentra SE-R with 31000 miles. I have changed spark plugs 2 weeks ago. 6 weeks ago, my car SOMETIMES shaked a lot while idle (traffic light, stop sign), but it went away. The Service Light never came up. 2 weeks ago, it shaked again in the traffic jam about 6 minutes, "service light" was flashing and then stay. I read the code, P0300. Then, I took it to the shop to get fix, it went back to normal on the way to the shop. They change the spark plugs for me. It was ok when I drove to them, so I could not really see the difference. while driving in the past 2 weeks, rough idle happens less than a second SOMETIMES (only twice) at the traffic light. This morning was ok when I am out of the house. I start feeling litght shaking and less power 2 minutes after getting on the freeway, The Serice Light starts flashing. I can feel less power above 52m/h (above 2300RPM) but it is not too shaky as idle. Then I get off, and hit the first traffic light and shake a lot while waitting for the red light. However, it went back to normal again before I park my car. I did a test run an hour after and it is still fine. Any suggestion? Air filter(I never changed and it doesn't seem to dirty just little build up in the middle)? or any following makes more sense to you about SOMETIMES it happens at speed 0mh or above 50mh? For example, will Vacuum Leak only happens sometimes at stop sign or speed up above 50? -Vacuum leak -Faulty Spark Plugs or wires -Faulty Coil -Faulty oxygen sensor
A p0300 code is usually a random multiple misfire code. Does the car have a ignition coil pack there is a possibility that this is slowly breaking down and this may be the cause of the fault codes and the juddering. It may also be worth carrying out a cylinder compression test.
Spark plugs in your car are good for 100,000 miles. try changing fuel filter and add a can of B&G 44K fuel additive. This stuff is the best on the market and only available at dealerships. It conditions fuel pump and injectors, also absorbs water in fuel (methanol). Try this first, your car is too new for any other problems. this should help drivability and fuel mileage. If Nissan does not have B&G, I know Toyota does. Also stay with 91 octane fuel. Check oil and coolant often. do not risk overheating in traffic, watch your gauges......
SOURCE: 2000 Nissan Sentra rough idle
a rough idle/high idle is indicative of a malfunctioning TPS(throttle position sensor) this is located on the throttle body ,is attached with (2) screws/bolts to the throttle body housing right off the butterfly shaft. it has either 2 wire or 4 wire plug. the replacement part can be purchased at locale auto parts store. I would also agree that a full service and tuneup be done. this will help with performance and will increase the fuel efficiency. please rate this...thanks
SOURCE: #5 cylinder misfire
I have a corolla and had #4 cylinder misfire also diagnosed at autozone. After changing the spark plugs, problem persisted, along with the same error code, so they recommended changing the spark plug wires, and that is what fixed it. I would have changed the rotor cap too, but was low on dough. Glad that was not the problem.
SOURCE: Truck losing power and service engine soon light on
Like to other guy said, give it a tuneup. Also try SEAFOAM to clean carb up of slug. Also check to make sure the butter fly for the choke has not come loose, causing it the choke it down. Failed choke pull-off.
SOURCE: car idles rough in park also runs rough in overdrive
Sometimes a rough idle like that is a fuel filter. As you've already done the plugs and wires the fuel filter would be my next bet.
SOURCE: 1990 buick regal limited 3.1L V6 rough running/no power
sounds to me like your missing on a cylinder or two, the coil pack is on the front of the motor just below the head, i would trace the wires and make sure they connections are all good, then check the firing order and make sure they are correct, once thats done the next step would be to have the coilpack tested (this can be done at most parts stores) the only other thing it could be spark wise is a crank or cam sensor(in most cases the crank sensor controls spark up to about 4 or 500 rpms once the motor fires the ecm takes over) once all thats done and everything is fine then the issue is fuel delivery not spark at that point it could be anything from a faulty pump relay to a MAF sensor, faulty injectors, bad fuel filter, etc... hope this helps, good luck!
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