ABS BRakes ABS system activates when you slow down & turn to the right while pressing on the brake pedal , such as pulling into my driveway to park , it does not activate when you turn to the left & do the same thing , both front wheel sensors have been checked & they are OK I have a '98 Chevrolet bazer. the ABS come on between 5-8 MPH regardless if the brake pedal is pressed. I've checked the front wheel snsors and they both read about 950 ohms.

Yes you should be able to disable the ABS but I cannot emphasize this enough.....DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL FIXED.

ABS and the normal braking system is the same set of brakes. It is not 2 separate systems. You can disable ABS and that varies between manufacturers as to how to do that. It could be the simple press of a button marked ABS or entering a menu and disabling or it may require sophisticated dealer only equipment.
Your ABS is obviously faulty (or at least one of the sensors is faulty) as it should only operate when it detects a wheel locking up under braking and you should then feel the pulsing through your brake pedal as it disengages and re-engages rapidly to prevent locking up the wheel.
Find out how to disable the ABS and see if that stops the shaking. Do it somewhere safe, not the highway and do it at a slow speed. Best course is to get it looked at by a professional

check the calipers are not binding

Most vehicles will function normally if you do this. Try using your brakes at a slow speed like in your driveway before normal use just to make sure !

If the brake pedal goes hard right BEFORE the car dies, and not after, then you could have a problem INSIDE the brake power booster. try to verify this next time it dies at a stop, if you can safely pull the dead car off the road into a driveway (or try to make it stall in a bumpy parking lot) - then before you try to restart the car, open the hood, pull off the rubber hose where it's plugged into the brake power booster --> you SHOULD hear a big "Swoosh" of air being sucked into the booster because there's supposed to be a strong vacuum there even after the car stops running. if you get nothing there, your car is dying of an excessive vacuum leak through the brake booster.= bad booster.

is this the front brakes doing this?? or the rear?? i would recomend changing pads and rotors and drums(rear) and shoes(rear)

one of the abs sensors is going bad.

Check for air in the system, Also check your brake calipers to make sure that the Pistons are not freezing or just locked up

YOUR ABS BRAKES ARE ALWAYS ON THIS IS TO PREVENT SKIDING

this is normal, all abs systems are full time, if they weren't then the systems would be useless.

Check the brake light switch at the pedal. However an overheated/melted bulb base means arcing to me. So, BOTH sockets are probably slightly corroded & rusted. You fix that by scraping the terminals inside the socket with a pocket knife or screwdriver. Clean with alcohol or contact cleaner. If the new bulb isn't tight, and can be moved back and forth by hand, bend the contacts inward slightly, but don't snap them, they are spring steel. I was wondering when somebody would ask this question. I fix them at least to once a month - not the same car, but all GM's, and when fixed, they're good. Use logic if centre safety/brake light works.

The remote start sounds normal. There are many different types and they are quirky.

You should scan for codes with an OBD II scanner. If the problem was in the brake light connections or is fixed at the pedal, erase codes. It could be, by coincidence, and in no relation whatsoever to this problem, that a front wheel bearing sensor has gone - they do that, and require a new hub assembly.