Can a plug connector for trailer be blown - 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

There are several potential reasons why the trailer lights on a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero might not be working:

1. Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel for a blown fuse related to the trailer lights. Replace the fuse if it is blown.
2. Wiring issue: Inspect the trailer light wiring for any signs of damage or corrosion. If there is damage, repair or replace the wiring.
3. Bad Ground: Make sure that the trailer lights have a good ground connection. Test the ground connection to ensure it's making a good electrical connection.
4. Faulty Light Bulbs: Check the trailer light bulbs to see if they are burned out. Replace any damaged or burned-out bulbs.
5. Trailer Light Connector: The problem could be with the trailer light connector. Check the connector for any signs of damage or corrosion. Clean the connector or replace it if needed.

If you are unable to resolve the issue, it may be necessary to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic for further inspection and repair.

It's possible these are two separate problems. You will have to find out why the power is not reaching the license plate lamp assembly, and this means tracing the circuit. Check for power and ground at the lamp. You will have to identify the correct wires and follow them back toward the fuse to find the problem. A wiring diagram will make it much easier to solve.
Same with the trailer connector. If it's not working, I assume you mean there is no power when you plug in your trailer. You will have to figure out which wire is supposed to supply battery voltage and why it isn't. Are there any broken wires? Corrosion? Does the trailer connector have any connection to the license plate lamps? (It shouldn't.)

Usually a wiring problem - the wiring on your truck connector may not match the pinout on the trailer plug.

there are fuses for all lights in your truck. those fuses sre located in the IPDM box, whiich is the box by the battery. there is a black cover about 6inches by 7inches. under that lid is the IPDM where you need to look and fine the fuse that is blown. start there. if the fuse is blown, replace it and recheck your rear plug for power at appropriate pins. if you have power everywhere at the connector and then you plug your trailer to it and the same fuse blows again, then i would be looking at the trailer harness for short causing the fuse to blow.

Most likely the brown wire from the trailer connector is connected to a constant battery voltage source, and it should be connected to the vehicle running light circuit, however someone might have wired the trailer connector up that way on purpose so that the trailer does not draw power from the vehicle running lights and possibly damage the vehicle running light circuit. (Dodge/Chrysler vehicles do have delicate lighting systems) Here are some images to help assist you, and the 4 way connector is the same as the 5 way connector just without the blue wire for the trailer brakes.

Look in the power center under the hood, these trucks have seperate fuses for truck and trailer lights, and I suspect the one for the left side is blown. If the fuse is not blown I would start by inspecting the harness where the trailer plug is attached. Sometimes if these are not factory units, people do a prety sloppy job with the installation. The connections should be soldered and not just twisted together and taped, and heaven forbid they used Scothlok connectors.

It is a possible option that the relays for the Stop / Turn are having an issue or the fuse in the Engine Mini panel is blown ( page 142 of the 1997 owners manual )

On the 1997/98 MY this is in the aux relay box in between the Engine Compartment fuse panel and the engine mini fuse panel.


The output of the MFS ( Multifunction switch ) triggers the relays, to use the trailer tow fuse to operate the trailer lamps. The fuse to supply power to the Normally Open contacts on the trailer relays should be hot at all times. You can verify this with the diagram below by metering from pin #3 to pin # 2 [ground for coil] or to another known ground.

These are 1/2 size Ford ISO relays, and can be jumpered to make testing easier ( and with this diagram you can bench test them with a meter to check resistance over the Normally Open contacts, when applying power and ground to the coil ).


I am not 100% sure on the 97/98 MY F-150 about the location of this connector, but the 99-03 have all the wires to the rear of the truck via a connector along the driver's side frame rail, that you can check for ( easiest with the spare lowered )


Start with the Fuse in the Engine Mini panel, to see if the 20A fuse is good and work back towards the trailer tow adapter via the relays. I am going with the obvious blown fuse for the Stop/Turn lamps for the trailer.

i assume that you have a trailer light attachment installed at the rear of the vehicle somewhere around the tow hitch,turn on your head lights,obtain a volt meter and check D.C. voltage on the pigtail,ground the black lead to clean frame metal and check the pins on the plug with the red lead,one of them should be live 12v dc.that will be your trailer running lights,theother will be brake lights,you will have to have someone hold trheir foot on the brake to test it,dont assume the trailer is ok. verify voltage at the connector on the vehicle first,if you have 12 v,there the trailer has the problem,or if it hasnt been used in a long time the connector may need to be cleaned,as far as the fuse goes depending how it was installed,could be several choices,set your meter on continuity and check all fuses,you dont have to phisically remove each one,if you look close there are two small contact points on both sides of the amp rating number,most likely you will have two or three fuse panel locations,primary is under dash drivers side ,secondary panels and relays located in engine compartment under hood on fender walls black plastic box w/cover,,also may be on the sides of the dash board,can only see when the door is open ,or behind the ashtray in the center console,replace any fuses that are blown,be aware of the plug configuration on the car to the trailer,and that the ground wire on the car side of the plug is also the ground lead on the trailer connector, wires may have got mixed up during repair,happens to the best of us once in a while,clean ground connections are very important on trailers,old rusty wires and scerws should be removed wire brushed and reinstalled,or replaced if needed,then sealed with varnaloc,or spray paint,to protect them,hope this helps you.aloha from maui todd0708

sounds like something is up with the wiring on the trailor. you can also check the harness connector for the trailor, i have seen them actually corrode and short to other wires in the connector

It is in the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side