2004, 6 cylinder outback, engine idle speed

Chech idle adjustment screw, and spark plug gap.

dont drive it. find the cause and fix it now.
Hot and cold engine or BOTH>?
1995 Tracker, no tranny , no 4wd , on engine options stated.
Exact high RPM in neutral, not stated...... 1500 is normal cold.
keeps going in Neutral. (nah , you have 5 ways to stop any car.
key, hand brake, foot brake and neutral. and with 4wd, 1 more neutral.
keep that in mind driving any car.
this car has up to 3 throttle cables that can stick. and more!

1: floor mats hit the pedal>? ala. Toyota style (lawsuits)
2: the three cables are, throttle. , cruise and A/T transmission kick down cable. if car is M/T and no cruise it has 1 cable.
so disconnect it, throttle fixed? (disconn,. 1 by 1, bingo?

no cure?, then its not the pedal , you meant just high idle.
yes, replace the cable or bad parts three.
ok say its not the cables.. (tests proved that)
the 95 came with 2 engines, 8valves and 16valves,
they work differently (8v love so race, 16v loves to stall)

1: ISC Stuck open, common.
2: 8v, any air leaks at all , will cause super high idle speeds.
3: throttle valve in the throttle body is stuckopen (gunk) or the return spring broken (very very rare the latter,in fact never heard of one breaking)
4: IAC (thermal idle control stuck open ,(my 97 was). and lots more.
5: on the 16v it takes 2 failures. to make high idle.
gross rich running engine (cold engine its normal) and any air leak
once hot the engine can not race unless there is huge overfueling
and an air leak.
6: the 8v has this device on the side of the throttle body.
called a dash pot. its just a fast idle vacuum servo.
if stuck open the engine will scream full time....
7: ECU stuck in limphome, can cause too high idle speeds.

we need to know which engine
http://www.fixkick.com/find-parts.html
8v or 16v first.
then does the idle race hot or cold or both (engine temperatures)
if it races , then how fast?, RPM the dash tachometer tells you that.

it can be as simple as a 50cent hose cracked.
to a dead ISC. (idle speed control) IAC is thermal idle air controller.
the IAC must be closed on a hot engine,
if the the engine never gets hot,it will scream full time.

the idle RPM is too high
or its just too cold,
how cold is it outdoors?
idle speeds cold can be about 1500 RPM/ cold.
and will ****.
it jerks because you are taking 0 torque from engine
and the sending that to a stalled rear axle.
this cause a ****, that is why the park lock out requires Brakes on
so yo dont run over things.

It sounds like a faulty idle air control valve. The computer uses the valve to control idle speed by regulating the amount of air entering the throttle body. Its possible the motor inside the valve is weak, or the valve is gummed up. I would unplug the valve when base idle is near normal and drive it for a day or two. If the valve is the problem the idle speed should stay in one place. And it should set a trouble code for the valve being disconnected.

It can be issue with IAC( idle air control valve) causing the problem.

There are many other possibilities causing these idle issues. Engine idles rough.

There are few help links with solutions to troubleshoot such idle issues.

I suggest you refer the link below and follow its troubleshooting details:------

Click the link below:-----

Ford Expedition IAC valve replacing

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/12/ford-expedition-iac-valve-replacing.html

Bad miss at idle?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/bad-miss-at-idle.html

-----------

Stumbling and stalling at idle after engine rebuild?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/stumbling-and-stalling-at-idle-after.html

------------

1999 Ford F-150 Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html

---------

Engine stumbles coming off idle when warm?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/engine-stumbles-coming-off-idle-when.html

------------------

Erratic idle on car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/erratic-idle-on-car.html

-----------

Cold start problem and vehicle shudder around 2500 to 3500 rpms

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/cold-start-problem-and-vehicle-shudder.html

----------

Low idle when cold out side?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/low-idle-when-cold-out-side.html

-----------

GMC Sonoma Stalls and idles low

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/10/gmc-sonoma-stalls-and-idles-low.html

--------

GMC Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/gmc-idle-air-control-iac-valve.html

-------------

1996 Camry intermittent engine failure while idle?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/1996-camry-intermittent-engine-failure.html

------------

Engine quits at idle?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/engine-quits-at-idle.html

-----------

Car overheats and Air blows hot at idle?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

---------

High Idle Problem

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/high-idle-problem.html

-------

While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

---------

Idle flair is noticed on car? Rough idle? car will not idle? Erratic idle speed?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/idle-flair-is-noticed-on-car-rough-idle.html

--------

High rpm in neutral? Inconsistant high RPM in neutral?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/high-rpm-in-neutral-inconsistant-high.html

-------

Vehicle stumbling at idle and shows code 54?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/vehicle-stumbling-at-idle-and-shows.html

----------

Rough idle, staling and Erratic shifting?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/rough-idlestaling-and-erratic-shifting.html

-----------

While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

---------

These details will help.

Thanks.

That would be your engine "choke" functioning. It's not a problem. The choke engages when engine is cold and shoots extra fuel to the cylinders to idle the engine up especially in cold with. Once the engine has sufficiently warmed up, the engine will idle back down.

Here is the OBD2 emission system drive cycle test procedure.
Engine coolant temp must be below 70c (158f) before starting the engine for either the first or second trip
The fuel level should be less than 1/2 full
First trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" for at least 10 seconds (not more than 5 min)
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary.
End of first trip. Turn the key off the begin the second trip.
Second trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" add four gallons of fuel
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary. I especially like the part where they want you to add four gallons of fuel. Not three gallons, not five gallons, four gallons. Gotta love those Nissan engineers. ...and of course they state that if the trace is not followed exactly (i.e. you botch the acceleration/deceleration) you have to start all over again from scratch

Sounds like a Tps issue (throttle position sensor). It's thinking it's closed throttle when it isn't.

Sounds like you have a vacume leak on your brake booster ....with engine running have someone press the brake while you listen on the driver side by the master cylinder the large vacume line going to the booster behind the master cylinder is most likely the vacume leak...and if so you can get what you need at your local parts store ...

First suggestion is go to AutoZone and get the error codes read (for free) -- this'll probably tell you exactly what the problem is.

Charlie