Question about 2004 Dodge Intrepid

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2004 intrepid replaced MAP sensor and cleared codes. about 100 miles later drove to work, 8hrs later started it and engine started intermittently revving at idle and in gear. had to keep heavy on throttle to get it home.shut off. half hr later started up and ran fine. few days later did same thing. got code poo68 and po123. tps voltage falls within parameters of my repair manual...i am stumped

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  • rexking2 Feb 18, 2012

    if iac is unplugged when engine is running,it dies wether it is cold or at operating temp

  • rexking2 Feb 20, 2012

    I cleaned IAC valve and it seems to have helped but I'll have to drive it for awhile and see if it starts revving intermittently again.

  • rexking2 Mar 15, 2012

    ya that fixed it



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TPS wears in spots and can cause intermittent problems like you described. Try turning off the car and unpluging the TPS. Start the car and see if smooths out the idle/reving problem while the TPS is unplugged. If yes replace the TPS.

Posted on Aug 12, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017



  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: won't shift out of low,speedometer doesn't work

see my comments, not 100% sure that it was the out put speed censor or not, but after reconnecting the wires to a new censor and reconnecting the battery and clearing codes it worked. connection was not clipped may have been loose

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

Richard Scordino

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Dodge Gr. Caravan downshifts in D. Works fine in D3

Perhaps I'm crazy, but when I ran a shop, the vehicle did not go home 'till the problem was solved and I never charged for items that did not fix the vehicle...( I had the silly idea that the customer should not pay for my mistakes .therefore in my world they already have abdicated.)
The problem may be beyond the skill level of anyone in the shop...therefore doing the same thing over and over will give you the same results. You need a fresh "eye" on the situation. Only then will you get a different result. There are "flight tests" and other diagnostics that can be done that should give you an idea what is going on.
If the repair is going to cost more than what the vehicles value is, then it's your decision about what to do. You can have the repair done, buy a different car and/or you may have some legal means of recovering all or part of what you spent not fixing the problem.These are decisions you need to make, but decide after you have the facts in front of you.

Posted on May 20, 2009

Patrick Rayome

  • 1757 Answers

SOURCE: code 23 engine idles but surges when in gear

Replace the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Depending on your size Engine (2.4L, 3.0L or 3.3L) It should be located where the Air Filter is. When you take the cover off, it wil be mounted into the cover. It has the only wires going to the cover.
This sends information to the Computer which adjust the air/fuel mixture - causing surges.
The 2nd recommednation: to remove, clean and check is the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve and replace if necessary.

Let me know if this helped....

Posted on Apr 06, 2010


Nate Stansfield

  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: Had the check Engine Light Code TPS Po123 High

have you cleaned out and tested the throttle and body itself? Tested any relays if there are any on this one?

Posted on May 11, 2010


timothy hester

  • 760 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Dodge durango intermittent hesitation rough



Posted on Dec 22, 2010

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The first thing you'll want to check is the vacuum hose going to your MAP sensor. (Manifold Absolute Pressure) If the hose is cracked, dry-rotted, or disconnected, it will not only cause a vacuum leak, but the MAP sensor will actually think the car is driving up a hill or is being loaded somehow, because it isn't picking up a correct vacuum signal from the engine. If that's the case, the sensor is telling the computer to enrichen the fuel mixture all the time. This is a VERY good cause for no-starts and rough driveability.

Another thing you may want to look into is your coolant temperature sensor. As they wear, the thermistor inside is no longer calibrated correctly, often thinking it's a different temperature extreme from what it actually is. They're easy to replace, and it should be located right by your thermostat housing. It'll have 2 wires going to it. They're around $15-$20 usually, and it's good practice to change it periodically. (Change it while the engine is cold, of course.)

I certainly hope this helps you to get your car running normally again! :) Having an intermittent problem like that is frustrating, to say the least!

Take Care,

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