On the highway I noticed the rpm needle rapidly decreasing and the vehicle acting if it were abruptly stopped. I slowed down then drove the rest of the way home no problems. The next morning, the jeep stalled and the oil drip can light came on. I checked and noticed my oil was low, however; it had only been 2000 miles since my last service. I added a quart then had no more problems until today. The jeep stalled twice on the way home and now the oil drip can plus service engine soon light are on. Also I noticed under the oil cap a thick yellow mayonnaise like substance. I understand this is sometimes due to condensation build up as a result of not letting the vehicle reach operating temperature, however this is not the case. I make two separate 40 min trips 5 days a week. Now the jeep will not run without stalling. Any suggestions?
Oil cap , that is moisture, all cars do that driven short distances.
due to never reaching full temperature to drive out that moisture.
(or the PCV valve is clogged, ) there if which causes stalls.
its a stall plain and simplle.
engine that stall, go to to zero RPM
engines that stall , most warning lamps turn tune on ,just like it does key on first thing in the morning. its called lamp self test
and is covered in the operators, guide, its ok this must be your first stall ever.
Get a new PCV, and get fresh oil into the engine yours is too old.
Also get a full tuneup, ever do one this DECADE?
stalls have over 50 caused,do you want my wall of text on that
bet not,,, but is true,
Get the car fixed, serviced, or a full tuneup,
spark parts, filters, oil, like what we all do.. to keep it running like new,. and last longer.
the PCV valve is also a standard tune up part, if found to be
1; clogged, 2, not rattling when shook. (its just a check valve)
also that valve clogged can cause oil leaks due to excessive
crankcase pressures. (due to the vent now running backwards an clogging them)
here are some causes of stalls.
ask us blind folks why your car stalls is really impossible.
but seem everyone does, endlessly.
stalls are cause by gross MISFIRE.
(or loss of 12vdc battery power, but that is not your case)
here they are, and the wall of text page is there for fun.
good luck finding it , texting here, endlessly....
http://jeepdied.com/Misfire101.html
SOURCE: Oil pressure light comes on after driving on highway for 10 miles
Sounds like your sending unit sensor - if it was your pump going out, your engine would be history by now. Rule of thumb, if your oil check light ever comes on, it's usually too late to remedy the problem. You have a major issue, but since you've obviousely drove it quite a bit since then and it still hasn't seized up, I'm guessing you're ok...for now. Since you took it to a shop and they said you're ok, I'm assuming they checked your level and visually checked for leaks and found nothing. Either, you've got somethijng partially blocking your pick-up tube for the pump which is in your oil pan, or a electrical issue with the sensor. I would start by having someone check the sensor out and go from there...good luck.
SOURCE: rough idle stalls at low rpm's
check your transmission fluid,the motor will stall when fluid is low
SOURCE: 91 volvo stalls at anytime
TRY ANOTHER FUEL PUMP AND FUEL FILTHER THESE PUMPS ARE FUNNY ON VOLVOS HAD SAME PROBLEM ON 850 TURBO AND SURE ENOUGG IT WAS THE PUMP
SOURCE: 2000 Hyundai Accent check engine light on, with loss of RPM's
may be your fuel pump is need to be checked
SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or
your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.
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