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Eng cooling temperature gauge will not rise, eng cooling fan (rh fan sitting in the cab) will continually run, Can pull fan relay and it will quit, switch with other relays and continues to run. Cab heat is working but not great when traveling. When sitting in shop the it will heat quite warm.
It seems you are low in coolant. The temperature sensor has air to sense instead of liquid and temperature gauge will be low. Try to fill up with coolant but sometimes it's hard to get rid of air from the system. Have you changed the engine thermostat?
Hope it helps
Sounds like a poor connection or loose connection, stasrt with the battery and clean and tighten cables. then check starter connections, Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you work on starter connections! There are some good contact cleaners available at your local auto store.
check the sending unit near the out put hose for the radiator on the head one wire or two will go to it. it screws in to the head. or check the relay under the hood in the fuse box.
You seem to have a bad cooling fan switch...it's connected to the side if the engine and when it gets too hot it turns on your cooling fans. The switch doesn't cost that much, $10 to $15 and takes all of about 15 minutes to replace.
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Check your radiator fan or fans. when car is moving air will cool your engine to a normal temperature. When as you say you stop for a light the cars fans take over and will cool the engine. I would check the fans to see if they are stuck ( with engine off) and if not check for a blown fuse, and bad temperature sensor. Good Luck Friend.
Over heating the engine is a serious concern. With the hood raised you should hear the motorized fan turn on just behind the radiator as the engine requires additional cooling.. If you look in from the rear of the radiator you should see the fan blades.
This electric powered motor operates on a thermostat and when the engine temperature rises this fan should come on. I'm assuming from your description that when driving and air is flowing through the radiator as the car travels the engine is nor overheating.
Check fan motor thermostat, check fan motor and check wiring.
the usual suspects are:
stuck shut thermostat
clogged raiator
dead water pump
low coolant level
it's sunday, rovers don't work on sunday.
Then again, maybe its wednesday, rovers take half a day then.
if engine at long stand still,the engine temperature will rise about 190 degrees the cooling fan suppose to automaticaly turn on when coolant temperature sensor get hot it cause its resistance decrease causing pcm to send power to coolant fan relays and cooling fans, when you turn on AC the cooling fans suppose to turn on to cool down AC CONDENSOR, IF NOT AC WONT WORK COOLING FAN COOLS DOWN REFRIGERANT SO IT CAN RECYCLE THROUGH THE SYSTEM AGAIN.your cooling is suppose to turn on when engine at a sit still if vechicle not moving as coolant temperature rises at a set point the cooling fans will turn on cool down engine.cooling fans dont turn on when you first cold stsrt vechicle unless you have AC SWITCH ON.if cooling fans dont turn on when vechicle at a long stand still or moving along slow traffic.if coolant temperature sensor been replaced and fuses and relays okay have dealership check see if pcm driver circuit working faulty pcm will cause cooling fans not to turn on.
IF COOLANT TEMPERATURE RISING,CHECK TOP RADIATOR HOSE IF TOP RADIATOR HOSE IS NOT HOT REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF ALL IS GOOD.IF CAR OVERHEAT WHILE SITTING IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE.THE COOLING FANS NOT WORKING,CHECK COOLANT FANS FUSE AND RELAYS.IF BOTH IS GOOD.HOT WIRE TO SEE IF COOLANT FAN TURNS ON IF NO FAN MOTOR BAD.IF YES FAN MOTOR GOOD. PROBLEM COULD BE FAULTY COOLING FAN WIRING OR BAD ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR BAD OR FAULT IN THE PCM.
{: ) You didn't mention the model of your vehicle. Anyway, I admire your way of observation, and I'm sure you got the analogy by now. When the car is running, the engine rpm is higher, and so with the water pump, plus the wind velocity passing thru the radiator fins, can give sufficient engine cooling without the electric cooling fans. But when your vehicle stops, like sitting on a traffic, the engine rpm is lower, and so with the water pump, and there ain't enough wind to help.
This is why the electric cooling fans are very important in maintaining engine temperature at normal levels in any driving conditions.
Basically, the cooling fans are controlled by the engine control module (ECM). The ECM monitors input from various engine sensors and then will give an output signal based on its programmed instructions. The output signals will energize the corresponding fan relays, be it high or low speed.
You can start by checking first the easy ones like the fuses and relays. Cooling fans usually have square top transparent windows. Check the the underhood fuseblock label to locate. Might as well check all fuses to be sure.
Check the cooling fan relays for signs of overheating, and also for loose terminal seating.
Check the cooling fan if stuck, and also check the connectors if burned or melted. To rule out a defective cooling fan motor, you can check for continuity, or you may apply direct voltage to the two wires on each fan.
The mostv frequent cause of cooling fan malfunction is on the fuses, relays, and connectors.
As long as the temperature isn't spiking and the fan is turning on. It is normal for the temperature to rise to halfway on the gauge and then for the radiator fan to kick on. Sitting in traffic will normally do this.
When your temperature gauge reaches "H' it may too late to
prevent a major breakdown. Knowing the symptoms of an overheated car and how
they occur may be the difference between being inconvenienced and
incapacitated. Identification:---Other than a low oil level or low oil
pressure light, there is not a more significant part of a car's instrumentation
than a rising temperature gauge or a glowing "Hot" light. These
lights are really the only confirmation a driver has that his car is really
overheating. It is the identification of the symptoms of an overheating car
that enable the motorist to avert a badly damaged engine. Overheating is always
a traumatic event for a car's engine, which makes the early identification of
the symptom an important addition to the informed motorist's tool kit. Stuck Thermostat:--The car's thermostat is a valve that controls coolant
flow from the engine block to the radiator. When the engine is cold the
thermostat remains closed so that the coolant can reach operating temperature
quicker and also provide heat to the passenger's compartment. The thermostat
has a spring on it that moves depending on coolant temperature causing the
thermostat to open. Sometimes the thermostat fails to open thus restricting
coolant flow to the radiator where it would be cooled down. This condition is often
the cause of overheating. The symptoms of this cause would be a rising
temperature gauge and possibly the loss of heat inside the car. Restricted Radiator:---A car's radiator will have thousands of gallons of
coolant passing through in its lifetime. Along with the coolant comes
particulate matter in the form of corrosion breaking loose from various parts
of the car's cooling system. These contaminates collect in the tubes of the
radiator reducing its efficiency. Extensive "plugging" in the radiator
will cause the car to overheat. The symptom of this condition would be a rising
temperature gauge which goes up when you accelerate. Coolant Loss:--A car's
cooling system is a closed loop system. You are not supposed to lose coolant.
Sufficient coolant loss will cause the engine to run hot because engine is
heating less coolant to higher temperatures. The symptom of overheating induced
by coolant loss would be a pool of coolant on the pavement when the leak is
external. Steam under the hood as the lost coolant hits hot parts of the
engine, or a rising temperature gauge in the case of a undetectable engine
related leak. Of course, the gauge would also go up if the leaks were not
detected.
Deteriorated Water Pump:--Cars
use a belt driven pump to push the water and coolant mixture through the
cooling system. This part is called the water pump. Rarely the impeller that
draws the coolant through the pump will rust away making it impossible to push
any through the system. If this occurs the temperature gauge will climb and coolant
will boil over in the radiator.
Inoperable Fan:----Most
cooling fans are electrically driven. Some are driven by fan belts. If a belt
breaks or the electric supply to the fan is interrupted overheating may result.
Electric fans are tuned on thermostatically when needed. When the car runs at
idle for extended periods or the weather is extremely hot, a failed fan will
cause overheating otherwise it serves as a standby assist to the rest of the
cooling system. In stress conditions an inoperable fan will cause the
temperature gauge to rise.
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Check the cooling fan switch and the temperature control switch, they should be turning your fan on when the engine temp begins to rise (as when u stop and gauge starts to climb).
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