Question about 2005 Buick LaCrosse
Posted by Anonymous on
3.6L V6 Buick Lacrosse (Allure) CXS, 2006: The usual place for the power steering pressure hose to leak copious amounts of fluid is at the pump-end fitting. Don't bother trying to replace the teflon seal on the outside of it in an attempt to stop the leak. This fitting has a hidden internal seal that is designed to allow the metal part of the hose to float in the fitting even after the fitting is properly tightened. The only lasting repair is to replace the hose. On the 3.6 engine, this job is more difficult than average because the hose is a long multi-segment affair that wraps all around the subframe. Some pro shops are even hesitant to take it on, possibly because of poor GM instructions. It takes about 3 hours of labor, unless you have done it before. GM's removal and installation instructions are misleading and confusing; some might say just plain erroneous. They presume a GM hose is being installed, which apparently is not like the original hose, and that requires additional parts and effort. The solution is to install an aftermarket hose such as Edelmann PN 92226; the brand you choose really does not matter, they are all the same. The GM procedure also calls for removing motor mount bolts and lifting the engine. I found that to be unnecessary.
Remove the right side wheel and splash shield, which is held on by three plastic push pins. Undo the two steering rack heat shield snaps, using needle nose pliers to reach into the small space, and remove the shield . Take lots of pictures to remind yourself how the hose is routed around the subframe. You may ask yourself how it can possibly be removed; I know I did. Disconnect both ends of the hose. The pump end is best reached with a stubby length 18mm wrench. Despite appearing to be tight in there, the rack end is easy to loosen with a regular 18 mm open end wrench. The 18mm fitting you want to loosen is the one closest to the firewall. Very important: unhook and remove all of the plastic clips than hold the hose assembly in place, unhook the clips that retain a wire bundle to the assembly, and slide off all of the protective sheathings and cushion rings. From underneath, pull the pump end of the hose down under the subframe, and let it hang there. This will allow the metal sections of the hose to start to come away from the subframe rails. Begin to work the rack end of the hose outward toward the wheel well; it is tight in there, the end of the hose has a convoluted metal section, and and at first it may seem impossible to get that past the exhaust down pipe and out using the small space between the rack and the engine block, with the metal section of the return hose also getting in your way. Don't give up; it just takes patience. As the hose assembly comes out into the wheel well, you will be able to gradually turn the metal mid-section of the hose and feed it under the A/C compressor. You are basically turning the whole hose assembly counterclockwise (as viewed from above) in a series of steps until it is out. Eventually, with careful twisting and turning, it will come out. The key is to use the clear space under the A/C compressor and forward to the radiator to maneuver it. With the old hose on the floor under the car, study how it is laid out, and what sections lay along what parts of the subframe. Put the new hose on the floor, and orient it exactly the same. Follow the instructions that came with the new hose to install the included o-ring on the flare fitting at the rack end. I like to shrink a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the metal flare to protect the o-ring from cuts as it's stretch over it. Once the o-ring is in place, pull the heat-shrink off and discard it. Protect the hose fittings with caps or tape to keep them clean while feeding the hose into position. Starting at the rack end fitting, begin feeding the hose: From under the car, find the gap that's underneath the A/C compressor, between the front of the engine block and the front aluminum subframe cross rail. Feed the hose out toward the wheel well through that gap. Once you get the convoluted metal end piece through there, you can start to turn and maneuver the hose assembly clockwise. Going a little at the time, it can be worked into place, basically following the reverse of the removal. Maybe it's learning curve, but for me the new one went in better than the old once came out. Verify the the o-ring is still on the rack-end fitting, lube it with ATF, and hand start the threads into the rack until you are sure it is threading in properly, and it is not cross-threaded. Tighten it to no more that 20 lb-ft. The pump end fitting already has a white teflon seal on the outside, so all you need to do is lube it, start the threads by hand, and tighten it securely. . I hope this is write-up is helpful. Good luck with the repair!
Posted on Jul 11, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
No you must replace the complete line unless you go to a hydraulic line repair shop they may be able to rebuild the line with a new nut. You may consider a thread file if its the threads that are damaged. I have had great results with a thread file.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
Wherever you can, you should use a tubing wrench, whether it is a crow's foot tubing wrench, or just a normal style wrench with a tubing wrench end.
Those fittings are tight, an you have no options left if you damage the fitting.
As far as what to use, it is always a game of Legos as you try to gain sufficient access with enough oomph to do the job. Use open en wrenches to find what the size is, then use what you learn from that to get the same sized tubing wrench.
If you are removing the hose, and you do not intend to use it again, it can really make things easier to cut the metal line close, then use a socket...
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Which high pressure hose? if A/C, this requries special tools and training. It is VERY EASY to get seriously injured. Take this job to a shop.
Posted on Sep 26, 2010
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