Just started to have an exhaust leak up front in the motor just past the exhaust manifold. The leak sounds like its coming from the back side of the motor around the firewall. Is there another joint to the exhaust there that may require a exhaust gasket? I cant see where its leaking from but can here it loud and clear. Can anyone help me here?

check for a leaking manifold gasket or cracked manifold. If it is a front wheel drive car there may be a flexible bit near the engine to allow the engine to move in the mounts . This bit of flexible exhaust is known to crack under the brading.

Try checking the oil pressure sensor

Sounds like you have an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold, did you have the exh manifold machined flat?

There is a vacuum leak from installing the intake. Common problem. The exhaust and intake use a common gasket. When reinstalling the exhaust manifold, there are two guide pins, one front of the manifold and one in the rear. What usually happens is that the manifold sits ON these pins when installed and it creates a vacuum leak when the engine is started that instantly races the engine. The manifold has to be removed and when reinstalled, MAKE SURE the pins are IN the guideholes on the manifold.

Apperently one of your gaskets has gone bad. Do you hear any exhaust noises, like ticking? I suspect the intake manifold gasket is leaking and the oil is running down to the stud.

hi this is showing fuel trim bank 1 malfunction, this could be caused by the following things, intake leak, AIR system, fuel pressure/pump, injector/s EVAP canister purge valve, or HO2S ( air fuel mix incorrect) if it starts and runs fine, i do not think it will be fuel pump, or the injectors as this would make it run rough or even not start at all, if it was an intake leak, you would be suffering from high rev's when you start the car and would take a long time for the rev's to come down, so really, that just leaves the HO2S (sensor/s) these are located one on the exhaust manifold ( from engine follow exhaust manifold you will come to a things sticking out with some wires on) this is HO2S sensor bank 1, or if you look under the car on the exhaust, just past the catalytic converter you will see the same thing, this is HO2S sensor bank 2, it may be either of these, but i possibly would go for the first one, EVAP..it could be, if you have an air leak on it, the EVAP can be found under the hood/bonnet, at the front on the right hand side as you look into the engine/motor bay just in front of the screen was bottle...hope this helps

I had what sounds like the exact same problem. It was an exhaust leak from the left (driver's) side exhaust manifold. This engine has a history of the manifold bolts breaking and causing the exhaust leak. The engine is also used on some Dodge vehicles. It sounds like a tick and I almost mistook it for a bad lifter. I took it to the local Jeep dealer who confirmed the exhaust leak. I replaced the left manifold completely and replaced bolts/gaskets on both sides (left/right) and it fixed the problem. Be careful, as the dealer tried to gouge me on the price. You are looking in the ball park of $600 parts/labor. I got parts for $120 and it took the better part of a work day to do the job.

Sometimes an exuast leak when a motor is cold sounds like a tapping noise or it could just be a simple rocker arm adj., either one needs to be fixed or it will a larger problem.Thanks

hi there,
shut down the engine for atleast 30 minutes to cool,the starter motor was located under beneath the engine,the pinion driver was coincide to flywheel,if you want replace starter motor,disconnect starter regulator cable, loosen two bolt on the engine starter motor holder,try to swicth starter motor on a free way that could go out on mounting space,the exhaust manifold mostly is behind the way of starter motor if hard to pull out,if necessary disconnect exhaust manifold replace exhaust manifold gasket,distortion on manifold gasket may happen after removing manifold
. pull out starter motor and replace a new one, put back also exhaust manifold if you disconnect it.
set fender covers on each fender to prevent paint damage
select the correct size open end box end wrench or ratchet, socket and extension. This procedure is much easier using the ratchet, socket and extension. Use your wrench to remove all of the manifold mount bolts. The manifold will now be free enough to access the gasket behind it
remove the old gasket using your putty knife. The gasket should come of mostly intact. Use your putty knife to remove any gasket material that remains on the engine block or the manifold. Any gasket material left on the mounting surfaces will cause leaks that inhibit engine performance coat the new gasket on both sides with a light coat of anti-seize compound. Put the new gasket in place against the block mounting surface. The anti-seize compound will hold the new gasket in place and prevent the gasket from sticking to the mounting surface, making future repairs easier.
push the manifold in against the new gasket and the block. coat the threads of your manifold bolts with a light coat of anti-seize compound. This will protect the threads on the bolt and the mounting surface. Start all manifold bolts by hand to ensure that the manifold is positioned evenly against the block. Be sure that the gasket remains lined up with the mounting holes. If the gasket slips out of position it will leak.
use your wrench or a torque wrench if required by the service manual to tighten all manifold bolts. Start the engine and check for any leaks. no leaks means you are done.
have a nice day don't forget to rate me,thanks a lot.

You will be very lucky to extract the studs whilst in the vehicle. Drop the front pipe. Sounds harder, but, in reality, much easier.