Change my ignition cap and rotor but now it doesnt start the engine

First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?

Take the distributor cap off, crank the engine, see if the rotor turns.
Put it back together.
Remove the center ignition wire from the distributor cap, put the end of the wire within a quarter inch from metal ground, crank the engine, look for a spark.
The engine needs compassion, fuel, and spark to run. Check one thing at a time

i would check your distributor cap or just replace it it might have a crack and is not allowing the spark to reach the plug chang the rotor while your at it they shouldnt cost more than 20 together if that doesnt do it have your ignition coil tested

firing order example 3 1-2-3
1-3-2 Saab two-stroke, Perodua Kancil engine
BMW K75 engine 4 1-3-4-2
1-2-4-3
1-3-2-4
1-4-3-2
1-2-3-4 Most straight-4s, Ford Taunus V4 engine
Some British Ford engines, Ford Kent engine
Yamaha R1 crossplane
Volkswagen air cooled engine
Proton Wira VDO engine

since cap is new and rotor/ check engine timing and fuel supply for any block passages/ check battery and lastly if it doesnt start ur engine might have a loose compression and that needs full engine overhaul.

Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Move #1 cylinder to where piston is up, and on the compression stroke (TDC). Easiest way to do this is with a compression tester on the #1 cylinder - rotor cap OFF. When you see the pressure build...you're on the compression stroke.
The rotor cap should be at the #1 cylinder firing position...simply re-install the rotor cap at this time - noting which button is #1.
Starting at #1 install the wire for the #1 cylinder onto the rotor cap...the next button (clockwise) on the cap should correlate to #8; the third button on the rotor cap is, cylinder #4..and so on.
work your way around the rotor cap until you have all 8 cylinder wires in place...ignition coil wire in the middle button.

Engine should start and run.

Hope this helps.

replace main relay

95 JEEP WRANGLER 4 CYL

No spark. I have changed out the distributor cap, rotor, wiring from coil to cap, and coil was replaced. I checked the distibutor by turning ignition key and observing the rotor turn. What else can I check. I did not observe a module.

There are several problems that can cause this behavior, Is it cold where you are? If so the geo's have a known issue with starting in cold weather.

If not then here is a list of possible issues

1.) Cracked or damaged ignition coil and/or primary wire.
2.) Fuel Pump.
3.) Clogged fuel injectors (Engine will run rough when it does run if this is the case)
4.) Badly worn spark plugs, Spark Plug wires, Distributor cap and/or rotor.

*** WARNING *** Your ignition system contains dangerous voltage levels that could seriously injure or kill anyone coming into contact with the spark. Be sure to use insulated pliers or a spark tester and follow the instructions. Failure to do so could cause serious injury or death.

Tests to confirm:
1.) Purchase a spark tester from your local auto parts store, Connect a spark plug wire to the tester and connect the tester as described in its documentation, Have a friend crank your engine and watch for a bright blue spark, The spark should happen frequently and with a rythm, If it seems to skip alot proceed to test #4. If you dont see a spark at all the ignition coil is to blame, Even if you do see a spark, It should be bright blue and clearly visible in daylight, If it is then your ignition coil is doing its job.

2.) Get a pressure gague and hook it up to the fuel line, Turn the key off and on several times (Dont start the engine) if the pressure doesn't rise when the key is turned to on, Your fuel pump may be faulty, Even if it does rise it should reach 15 PSI, If it doesnt then replace the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.
3.) You would have to remove the injectors. I recommend you have a mechanic check to see if this is the problem.
4.) Remove the distributor cap and check the rotor for carbon tracking (A black line on the end that touches the cap) if you see that, Replace the cap and rotor and try test #1 again. If the rotor and cap are in good condition, reinstall them.