Just had Pro. rebuild on my 2003 zo-6 LS-6 motor. ($6500) Had k&n cold air installed. Motor rund perfect. However, "Check engine light" keeps coming on. Reset and light goes off. In a few days same thing. Just want to disconnect the annoying ( non -functional) service engine light? How do I do it? HELP !!!!!!!!

Hello,
There is a possibility that the old motor was not burning properly and you have carbon build up on the O2 sensers. A poorly functioning O2 senser will not allow the Fuel/Air mixture to work as you give it gas under load. You could have multiple O2 sensers too.

I thinl we answered this already

I have the same car 2004 L/S
& just did an HAVC Vent Motor Assy
under the dash

There are 5 under there

You figure out which feature doesn't
direct air flow to the correct place using
the dash button,if you have no professional
scan tool then you go to Motorcraft Web site
& look up the part,blow up the diagram of where
it goes & write down to part #

Then you buy it from Amazon for around $36.00
Some are easy to get to,mine was the worst & took a
couple hours,actually I had more problem with the glove
box than the vent motor install

Have the ABS Braking System tested

You most likely have a Bad Wheel Speed Sensor

The Control Switch on console does absolutely nothing,I know
I have a 2004 LS

You can not disconnect a thing
I have the factory wiring diagrams &
the answer is no

You have dash lights on-- why have you not checked for
codes & resolved the problem,same procedure when
ever any dash light stays on after motor is running

An dash light on you have an OBD2 system failure

A Lincoln LS does not have a jag motor in it ---I have one
The jag motor is not 3.9, also. The T-bird is based off the LS


You need a professional scan tool to & factory manuals
to even walk out to that car

Odds are if your engine has sludge (old motor oil that has solidified) it is a result of your vehicle sitting for a LONG period of time and/or has not be serviced at regular intervals. I would suggest adding a bottle of motor flush (follow directions on bottle) and drain oil you should notice a black somewhat lumpy mixture as it breaks up the sludge. You will need to do this method several times until the oil looks as it did when you added it. Driving a vehicle with sludge is a gamble as your oil passageways may become blocked at any time and could potentially cause bearings to wear out or worse. I make no guarantees in my suggestion as the only way to do so would be to fully disassemble your engine, clean it, and rebuild it. From now on I'd recommend to change your oil every 3000 miles and use a quality filter like a fram or purolator and a quality oil like valvoline or castrol (royal purple is the best if you don't mind spending some money) I'd also recommend adding a bottle of stp oil treatment at every oil change to help reduce friction and add to the longevity of your motor.

from autozone.com

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

1. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables from the battery.
2. For 1990-94 vehicles, remove the battery and battery tray from the engine compartment.
3. For 1990-94 vehicles, detach the speedometer cable connector from the transaxle.
4. For 1995-98 2.0L turbo engines, remove the air hose.
5. For 1995-98 2.4L engines, remove the air cleaner and air intake hose.
6. If equipped with 1.8L engine, remove the bracket on the lower side if the intake manifold.
7. Detach the starter motor electrical connections.

Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the starter motor and related components-1990-94 vehicles, others similar

Fig. Fig. 6: Unfasten the BAT terminal connector from the starter motor

Fig. Fig. 7: Unplug the starter motor electrical connector

1. Unfasten the starter motor mounting bolts, then remove the starter from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 8: Unfasten the starter mounting bolts

Fig. Fig. 9: Remove all of the starter mounting bolts ...

Fig. Fig. 10: ... then remove the starter motor from the vehicle
To install:

1. Clean both surfaces of starter motor flange and rear plate. Install the starter motor onto the engine and secure with the retainer bolts. Tighten the retainers to the specifications shown in the accompanying figure.
2. Attach the electrical harness connector(s) to the starter.
3. If removed, install the intake manifold stay and tighten the retainers to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
4. For 1995-98 2.4L engines, install the air cleaner and air intake hose.
5. For 1995-98 2.0L turbo engines, install the air hose.
6. For 1990-94 vehicles, attach the speedometer cable to the transaxle. Install the battery tray and battery.
7. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.

Operate the starter to assure proper operation.

On the central console is the A/C module. Inside A/C module are driver's side & passenger's side air flaps for mixing hot & cold air and directed air flows towards driver's side & passenger's side according to driver commands. The passenger's side flap for mixing hot & cold air according to driver commands is bad. Flaps are actuated by electrical step by step motors. Could be damaged the flap actuator (motor), the flap mechanism (blocked in "HOT" air position), and / or electrical supply wires. You must access the passenger's side flap for mixing hot & cold air, and see what happens when you command cold air to the driver's side: flap mechanism, flap actuator, supply wires, ... Repair & replace bad pieces and test the A/C system.

if it runs rough until the engine warms up yes, it could be the thermostat. also check that the radiator is full of coolant

This is actualy strange because the heat and a/c are different systems. If someone came to me with this problem first I would ask did it happen at the same time ? Then I would check the Blower Motor & Blower Motor Restistor. Do you feel the air coming out of the dash ? can you still turn it up and down ? If not both a/c and heat are working you just need to replace the blower motor and blower motor resistor. always replace both at the same time each can make each go bad you dont want to put a new blower in there and have the old resistor ruin it in a day.

I recommend you check the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm for proper installation and tears. Did you get a new one with your rebuild kit?